CORE One+ CoreXY 3D Printer - For Home & Business - Professional & Beginner Friendly - Free HF Nozzle & Filament - Fast & Fully enclosed & Ready-to-Use - Large Print Area 9.8x8.6x10.6in

So prusa deleted the previous listing for this item since I first reviewed it. It was down to 3 stars. Lol This thing is basically a full generation behind its comps, at 3x the price. I can buy almost three p2s for the price of one of these. Or a single h2d which has a heated chamber, touch screen, dual extruder, cameras, and a filter! I can't believe that for $1,500 bucks (now $1,550) this thing does not even come with a filter for ABS fumes! The multi material capability is a janky MMU system that in my previous experience is in no way comparable to the AMS. Next the many firmware problems this printer had - it would be very picky about when it would complete the homing calibration, half the time it would just fail and require a reset, after bouncing back and forth and slamming the tool head against the frame for a few minutes. The fix was apparently to take the whole thing apart break the tool head down to the backplate and re-tention the belts! On modern bambus all you have to do is loosen a couple of screws and the belts will self tension. However prusa has me here with an effing guitar tuner strumming the belts like a musical instrument and trying to determine which of the five different readings is producing the actual frequency I'm looking for. Most every printer back to the ender 3 would work even if the belts were extremely loose, this thing seems to be incredibly picky about the belts being precisely tensioned. The firmware that shipped on it would not even allow me to do any of the tests with the door open, requiring me to tape the switch! The printer itself is made from the cheapest materials possible- instead of a glass lid you get an extremely flimsy piece of acrylic that will crack if you look at it wrong (I believe it is 1/8 in). It also uses plastic rivets instead of screws to hold on the acrylic panels. The only upside is that some of the parts can be made yourself, as with all prusas, however I would rather just buy a printer that doesn't need parts to be remade constantly. Also this thing showed up incredibly dusty and with filament in the nozzle. Apparently they do a test print which explains the filament however the extreme amount of dust makes me question whether this thing was actually new or a return. Every one of my other printers came covered with plastic and completely free of dust, this thing looks like it was sitting out in an open dusty room for months. And the gummy bears were stale AF! There was nothing gummy about them; more like chewy bears... Also the bag contained green "gummy" bears. Yuk! They have absolutely no business selling this thing for this price! Diehard prusa fanboys maybe can get past the outrageous price and many shortcomings, but I wouldn't pay more than $600 for it (with filter and camera). (But personally I would go with a P2S or even a P1S over this 100% of the time) I don't know what prusa is thinking. But of course this is the same company that still selling bedslingers for a thousand bucks. Update: it appears that prusa has dropped their official price to $1,300 on their website. And they are offering a camera and a filter (which both come standard on most every comp printer) for an extra hundred bucks! Lol

I have the Core One's big brother, the Core One L, which is identical to the Core One+ with two exceptions: 1. The C1L bed is AC powered vs the Core One/C1+ bed. 2. The C1L is bigger in all dimensions, allowing for a roughly 12" square build volume. The C1 is well-packed, and even with a hole in the side of the box from the usual delivery guys, the printer itself was fine. If you're going to try to use the Prusa mobile app for setup - something non-obvious is when it wants to be near the NFC reader for network setup, this is on the back of the printer near the power supply and power cable. Not too important as you can input your network settings manually if using wifi (use ethernet if possible), and otherwise don't need it for setup. You should on receipt, IMO, run the calibrations other than the one for the extruder gearing, even though it comes calibrated from the factory. The phase stepper calibration in particular, is environmentally sensitive. This is simple to do from the printer's LCD screen. There are several images on the USB stick that comes with the printer including various 'Benchy' models. You can use one of them as you get your filament loaded once calibrated. I would advise, not just for the C1/C1L but any printer, to go pick up a cement paving stone to sit under the printer. This will add additional stability as well as resonance isolation from whatever you are sitting the printer on. As a CoreXY printer, it WILL move a bit, as the printhead is towards the top of the machine, and that's OK as it will compensate - you just want to make sure the surface it's sitting on is as stable as possible so the printer is effectively 'moving as one unit.' I used commercial shelving with 3/4" plywood shelving as well as the cement paver (which weighs around 90# to fit the C1L). For starters, I would definitely install Prusa Slicer on your laptop or desktop. I would also consider adding the Buddy Camera if it doesn't come in the package so you can check on your prints. You should get access to the course for the Core One on Prusa Academy, and it's worth going through, as well as the one on Prusa Slicer. I've had mine printing nearly 40% of the time (in 24 hour days, 7 day weeks) since receiving with zero problems other than 1 or 2 self-induced (really needed a brim on some fine/small parts). Do pick up a spray bottle of Isopropyl alcohol and of Windex for bed cleaning along with a microfiber. I wipe it down with alcohol each print, and if changing materials, e.g. PLA or PLA+ to PETG or vice versa, I use the Windex as some materials literally won't stick to each other. I would start out using 'Prusa Connect' which will let you send your project from Prusa Slicer directly to the printer, as well as monitor it. You can also use the connect website to check in on your print, including with camera snapshots (they're about to finally release as streamed version for BuddyCam). Of course, you can also run fully disconnected if you'd like, but Prusa Connect makes it easier to get started if this is your first printer. My only 'con' on the Core One/Core One L is besides the price being somewhat premium is the lack of a chamber heater. Having said that, people are printing TPU, ASA and other engineering materials without issue, and there are several projects on printables.com to add a chamber heater. The community on reddit and the Prusa forums is non-toxic, and pretty helpful overall. Part of the price premium is being made in the EU vs China, and Prusa unlike many others, tends to support their printers for a looong time. You can still get parts for original Mk3/i3 bedslingers, and full CAD drawings are published for both the Core One and Core One L, and a majority of the software is open source. While some brands have actively even made statements about scanning and possibly 'blocking' you from printing certain things - your Prusa printer is indeed YOUR printer, and mods are even supported by Prusa, meaning they don't try to blame you for modifying the printer and will still provide warrantee and support. I have no regrets on my Prusa purchase, which will become even better once the multi-nozzle INDX system is released (first orders should be outbound for Core One kits this quarter, then waiting on one for my Core One L), which will come in cheaper than the Bambu H2C and honestly, is a better engineered system. Get one and have fun!