BTF-LIGHTING SP630E Bluetooth LED Controller Support PWM Monochrome CCT RGB RGBW RGBCCT Or SPI TTL IC Chip LED Strip WS2811 WS2812B WS2813 WS2814 WS2815 SK6812 LB1934 etc DC5V DC12V DC24V

The app isn't great but its functional. It crashes frequently on Android. Operation is somewhat intuitive but the installation instructions are terrible and 30 minutes of trial and error will be your friend. As a novice in using LED tape lighting, a better instruction book/pdf would have been nice. Also during installation, the PLASTIC CONNECTORS between LED lights and wires MATTER and will consume 90% of your installation time if you don't know how they work or if you get the wrong item. I listed the connectors liked below. My 'hopefully' helpful hints for what they were worth: This SP630E unit adds Bluetooth and remote control functionality to the WS2812B LED Strips. It is also the interface that transfers power from the transformer to the LED Tape and generates the signals that the LED tape needs to work. This box works well, it is small and can be discretely hidden, but instructions are poor. You can program light sequencing, colors, timers and response to sound with the app. A dedicated remote control is available in different kits or might be sold separately, but you don't need the remote if you plan to control these lights from your phone. The remote is simple and has preset controls for most of what you can do with the lights, but the app (free) allows a little more functionality and control. To use the app, you first have to Bluetooth pair it with the SP630E controller. I had a lot of missteps doing my ordering and first installation of LED lights. My installation was a 6 self, 8 foot high bookcase that I wired as one continuous length but with 5, 12" vertical wire jumps and 48" horizontal LED runs. I was able to hide all the vertical wires fairly well. I goofed up and had to splice a few of the horizontal LED strips but those spices were easy using these flat connectors: Some additional flubs that hopefully you wont repeat: 1. Get a 5V transformer (DO NOT use12V) to power the WS2812B strips 2. Its not complicated. The WS2812B LED strips require only 3 wires for full functionality: --Use a red wire to connect the voltage tab (+5V) on LED strip with the "VCC" port/terminal on the SP630E unit --Use a green wire to connect the middle metal tab (DIN) on the LED strip with the "WC" port/terminal on the SP630E --Use a white wire to connect the ground metal tab (GND) on the LED strip with the "GND" port/terminal on the SP630E 3. The WS2812 LED strips are fairly dense (maybe 2" apart and can show every color and groups of LEDs can be programmed somewhat independently 4. Always pay attention to the arrows when you combine LED strip pieces. The arrows should always be pointing AWAY from the SP630E. If you connect part of the LED strip pieces the the wrong way, the entire strip will not work. 5. Cut straight across the middle of the LED strip metal tabs (where all the arrows are located) between the lights. Connecting a LED strip directly to another LED strip was easy...using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASHQPO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Just make sure you place the strips tabs under the connector tabs. The 90% elbows in the kit were kind of crappy and tended to be too floppy to reliably connect...probably just me, but the straight connectors were fine, the elbows were a waste. 6. If you want to connect a 3 conductor wire the LED sections (to jump a distance without lights), the ONLY connectors that worked for me was https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PR418WZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I wasted a ton of time trying other ways to connect them. These connectors specifically have 3 small holes on one side to stick the wires in. On the opposite side you stick the metal tab end of your LED strip in, FACE DOWN. The LED metal tabs must face down in the connectors. Be careful that GND connects to GND, +5V connects to +5V and DIN connects to DIN across these connectors. You must click down hard on each side to make an electrical contact take place inside the connectors. The LED tape connection side is a bit tricky to line up, but look thru the clear plastic to ensure that the metal tabs line up inside the connectors. Unfortunately, once you snap either side of these connectors shut, its almost impossible to open them back up if they don't make good contact with the metal embedded inside the connectors. If this is your first time working with these lights, you will waste some connectors. You will wind up cutting LED lights off when you mess up the positioning within the connectors. I got better & faster with every section that I did. Ultimately, you can absolutely do these projects but there is a learning curve.

works perfect and always reconnects on 1st try

Physical Device: This LED controller is simple / compact and easily mountable. Unfortunately, the device received does not have the VCC or GND channels at the bottom of the device as shown in the pictures or on the manufacturers site - VCC and GND wires had to be routed to the top ports of the device. The device I received only has 6 ports instead of 8 ports shown on the listing. An inconvenience for someone who is maticulous about their wiring. Connectivity: This device connected without any issues to the BanlanX app. I was surprised how quickly it connected. BanlanX App: This app is great an offers a very wide variety of pre-configured scenes. Clean and easy to use. Functionality and control is not buggy. Very disappointed in the music feature, whether you are using the media player in the app, your devices mic, or the built-in mic- in my opinion, the Govee products do a much better job at music sync. For this review, I used the BTF-Lighting SP630E controller with the BTF-Lighting WS2811 LED Strip. I would recommend this product as a good LED controller. If you are looking for something that does a great job synchronizing with music, this is not it. Gave it a 3 out of 5 stars, due to the missing VCC / GND ports and the mediocre music sync features. UPDATE: Purchased an additional 3 units. All three of these devices had the VCC and GND ports at the bottom of the unit. I'm still maintaining 3 stars on this rating because these units cannot be grouped together in the BanlanX app - each unit has to be individually controlled. UPDATE 2: These devices are still holding up well and continue to receive updates through the BanlanX app - all updates have been noted as "Bug Fixes". The app itself has not received any notable updates and does not allow you to group these devices together - you will have to control each of there individually.

My rgb controller of choice. The addressable functions are good as well- I just have a slightly better controller I use in that situation but this one is a bit more affordable.

I have three of these and they work consistently every time I would say if your actual strip isnt lighting up, don’t just leave it plugged with the wires and stuff. unplug it because you don’t want to like burn out part of it while you’re troubleshooting I can almost guarantee it has something to do with how much of the wrapping on the cable you stripped or if there’s enough contact between the little wires and the contact plate inside the thing like sometimes when you clamp it down if you didn’t take off enough you’re clamping down on rubber so it’s not actually conducting anything. If you get a flicker, maybe the wires wrapped back around or something but you want to clamp directly onto the wires. and that sounds simple, but I literally have issues with it every time. that’s just how these things are. I’ve had the same type of hook up with other devices and converters and things and always there’s some struggling. Also, if you get a flicker, you wanna unplug it right away because it probably means that like one of the wires is not in but the other ones are so those ones are trying to conduct power, but there’s too much power going through them and you can destroy the strip.