Wood-All Cherry Wood Veneer Sheet, Plain Sliced/Flat Cut, 24x96, A Grade, 10 mil Paperback

ok stuff. be careful that not too much stain because of thin and paper back

I got this paperbacked veneer for the top of an old American of Martinsville dresser that's been in my family since the 1960s that had gotten water damaged (from potted plants sitting on it). We think it was made in the 50s. I tried refinishing the top, but the old veneer had lifted, cracked, & chipped in one 5" area, there was just no way to fix it well enough to not look obvious, so I decided we should re-veneer the top. I wasn't sure what type of wood veneer it was, so I checked online for the different types of wood grain veneers and narrowed it down to Cherry that I would stain (it could also be walnut, but the cherry was a closer match unstained...and better price!) I got this 2'x8' roll of paper-backed cherry veneer from Amazon Warehouse Deals. Since we only needed about 21" x 50", we have scraps for testing stains & extra for a future project. After removing the roll from the box, we laid it out flat for about a week as recommended by several veneer experts I found online. After I filled in the missing veneer sections of the dresser with bondo 3M Bondo Home Solutions All Purpose Putty, 1-Quart & we sanded the top, we cut this veneer to size with a 1/2" extra edge all around & glued it to the dresser top with contact cement. Weldwood brand: Dap 00271 Weldwood Original Contact Cement, 1-Pint I rolled the glue onto both surfaces as seen in the first photo. The Weldwood Contact Cement is strong stuff. Once it's stuck on...it's permanent. So after the contact cement was just "tacky" on both surfaces, we laid down square wood rods across the surface of the dresser (front to back) and laid the veneer on top of that. Starting at one end, we pulled out each rod as we pressed the veneer onto the dresser. We let it rest for over a week with a lot weight on top, which included several heavy books & round weights evenly distributed. Note: you can use clamps, but for us, books and weights were definitely sufficient for this Weldwood Contact Cement-our clamps would have been difficult to evenly distribute pressure since the dresser is completely enclosed on the back & sides. Before placing the books, I covered the veneer with white butcher paper-wax side up to protect the surface from scratches, dirt, etc. After a week, we removed the weights & books-the veneer is perfectly flat! We trimmed off the free edge & lightly sanded the top & edges to get ready to stain. To match the aged minimally shiny appearance of the dresser, I brushed on one coat of Minwax Polyshades Mission Oak...left it on for about 5 minutes, then wiped it off (see photo attached). Minwax 613850444 PolyShades - Stain & Polyurethane in 1 Step, quart, Mission Oak, Satin The last two photos are with three coats of Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.Minwax 785004444 Paste Finishing Wax, 1-Pound, Natural that we bought locally. Minwax 785004444 Paste Finishing Wax, 1-Pound, Natural

I though should I remake some existing cornice boards or buy new sanded plywood. I opted to reuse the old boards. The material is very thin, but usable and cut well. I would recommend for small projects. The finish quality was good.

I bought this item to make the end portion of my DIY mantle look like a whole piece of wood. The description made it sound as it was adhesive however this is plain veneer so please keep that in mind. Other than that hiccup, I still used adhesive and was able to add it to my end pieces. I cut it down, glued it, then sanded the edges. The veneer stains very well and matched everything very nicely. Now the mantle block I built truly looks like a solid piece of wood instead of a few 1x8’s nailed together. Would definitely use again.

To my chagrin and a waste of money. I purchased this product thinking it was self-adhesive when the reviews said it had good adhesion. It is not!!!! This is highly deceptive. If it is not self-adhesive, why is there an adhesive rating? I blame Amazon for this. When I picked a self-adhesive product, this product came up as an alternative and it had an adhesive rating. Unfortunately, I did not discover this until after I cut it. Total waste of money.

First time working with veneer, easy to use. Turned out pretty well I think. Easy enough to use with contact cement. I did have to stain it to achieve this color. Used on some subwoofer cabinets.

For the price you're getting a TON of veneer! Perfect for vintage audio gear restoration. Takes stain beautifully and the paper backing has no problems adhering to plastics, woods, MDF, etc. I use standard rubber/contact cement and have had very little issues. Sometimes the paper gets in the way of a clean corner when you're sanding it, which is to be expected with most paperbacked veneers. But with a second round of careful, directional trimming, you can usually get it to look pretty good!

I got a couple of estimates for someone to come out and repair the end of our kitchen cabinet which had been damaged. All I needed was some matching veneer to be placed over the current cabinet. Estimates were from $250 - $300. I purchased a sheet of this veneer and a can of spray adhesive all for less than $40, cut it to size and glued it on. I then purchased a small can of cherry wood stain (under $10) and put 2 coats on the veneer. Perfect match and looks great and saved a lot of money. Be sure and follow the directions on the spray adhesive and take your time cutting the veneer (I used kitchen scissors) to get straight sides. Be sure and purchase adhesive that gives you some time to adjust/move the veneer around to get it into place. Also, keep rolling or rubbing the veneer once you have glued it to the cabinet to ensure that the veneer is completely attached with no bubbles.