Denso Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor - 234-9041

My car rav4 base 4wd 2008. I did have check engine light. VSC and 4WD. Had a code reader (bluedriver) which told me the issue. Bank 1 sensor 1 stuck lean. I tried 2 sensors from ebay and none of them worked. They would misfire and even after resetting the ECU, the check engine light came back Despite having a new sensor installed. Googled a lot and found that Denso makes genuine oxygen sensors for toyota assembled in US and not china. This is important trust me. Chinese stuff usually work but not car parts spaciallly sensors! Found the Denso here and the price was fair. Tried it on my car and had no issues so far. This part is the same being sold by dealership for about 200$. Same thing. Up to you if you want to spend 80$ more and wait for them to order it for you in a week or two or simply order here cheaper and get it in 2-4 days with prime delivery. Great seller. Great product. Super happy with it. Thanks for selling these quality products.

Great price, excellent product, works well. Not all that easy to track down until I went to the Denso website for the correct information, but worth the effort. The Denso Air Fuel Ratio Sensor is a top of the line OEM product and a direct replacement for the unit installed on the 4 cylinder Camry made in Kentucky to non California (Federal)Emissions standards.It is the upstream, or number one, (between the engine and catalytic convertor) Air Fuel Ratio Sensor as opposed to the downstream, number two, after the catalytic convertor Oxygen Sensor also installed on the car's exhaust system. I believe a code 2238 indicated a low voltage produced by the number one Air fuel Ration sensor would pop up now and then along with the check engine light to let me know that the air fuel ratio sensor was failing periodically. Anyhow, I disconnected the battery cable, unplugged the air fuel ratio sensor from the car's wiring harness, put a socket on it and tapped it with a hammer. PAPP! It came loose immediately. I unscrewed it and installed the new one after putting some antiseize compound on its threads. You run it up about 35 to 40 foot pounds with a torque wrench, plug it in and put the battery cable back on. Start the car and run it with the scan tool installed to see how it is doing. It takes a day or so of casual driving for the computer to relearn all of the speed and fuel requirements of the engine.. After this all is back to normal and the fuel management system is running closed loop again. All in all, the 117 dollar top line air fuel ratio sensor would have cost 185 dollars plus tax at a local auto parts store. If a garage installed it, it would have cost 400 to 500 dollars by the time they got through with their song and dance. Garages charge for labor, disposal of cleaning rags, hazardous material disposal etc, etc, etc. Aren't they so damned "correct" in screwing the customer (True story, went through this a few years ago before I decided to take matters into my own qualified hands). Automotive parts like this one are difficult to pin down for specific make and model of vehicle (i.e. Federal, California emissions, made in Japan, made in US etc, etc). a little trick I use is to go to the "manufacturer's website and get the correct part number. Then I put that into the Amazon website and get the price details on my choice of product. Works like a charm and I know I am buying the correct product. Amazon is a good place to buy automotive parts. Anyway, I won this one and all is well that ended well. Regards, Pag

I had this problem: On Dash: VSC + Check-Engine + 4WD lights lit. DTC: P2195: Bank 1 Sensor 1 Stuck Lean. After installing the product I have driven over 200 miles for last couple of weeks and no problem so far. I don't anticipate any either! This is how I did the $400 job myself:- -- I have a OBDII reader that helped determine the cause. It is the Air-Fuel Sensor, aka upstream O2 sensor, aka Bank 1 sensor 1 on RAV4. It senses the burnt mixture for air to fuel stoichiometric ratio (a ratio at which the fuel is completely burnt, 1:14.7 or something). It does not behave same like the downstream O2 sensor. The CPU continually tweaks the voltage/current to it so reading the voltage at the sensor wont tell you whether the sensor is defective or not. You read it after the CPU and that means high end OBDII reader. Reading the resistance wont tell you much either! -- Order with some risk that the electrical connector will not fit. Make sure you can return. Check the connector for fit once received. -- Order an O2 sensor socket (has a slit on the side). Most are 3/8" drive with 7/8” socket. -- Idle the engine for 30 seconds -- no more. It will warm up slightly. -- The O2 sensor (aka air-fuel sensor in this particular case) is located on the exhaust manifold coming straight out of the engine. It will be on your right as you face the car. There will be a cable going to it. -- Soak the base of existing sensor with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil (not Garage Door lube!) . Wait 1 hour for the liquid to loosen the rust. -- Disconnect battery negative and wait 30 seconds at least (sudden air-bag deployment). Attempt to remove existing sensor with 3/8" drive 12" torque wrench. If it doesn't loosen with about 40 ft-lb of force, re-soak and retry. Don't force it or else you might strip the thread ($$$). Gentle tapping around the base will help to loosen it. -- If you cannot loosen it, take it to Meineke or someplace that can install it for you. -- Once loosened, remove the battery! This will give you straight access to the sensor. You can see the sensor hole from that side. Install the new sensor with supplied anti seize compound – just enough to get a thin coating on the threads. Hand-tighten it first. -- Make sure to torque it to 32 ft-lbs of force. Make sure to route the cable through the hose clip to avoid touching anything that gets hot. Reinstall battery. Re-connect all cables and start the engine. -- Check for exhaust leaks. You will visibly see water vapor like fumes coming from the sensor base. I set the torque wrench wrong and it had 30 ft-lbs on it. And it was leaking! If leaks, immediately shut off the engine. You are in danger of CO poisoning. Re-torque slightly more. Be careful ,... it will be hot! Once I re-torqued to 32 ft-lb it stopped leaking. -- The act of disconnecting the battery will remove the DTC code as well unless you have some other problem. So, you will not see any immediate DTC code after changing. -- Drive it at least 5 miles with 2 stops – stop means stopping the engine and taking the key out. If you still do not get any DTC code, you are probably OK. This same test had been failing for me for about a month when I decided to change the sensor. I have attached some photos that show exactly what I received.

Bought 3 sensors before this that AMAZON said was the upstream sensor and would fit my car. Lesson being DONT trust amazon!! I couldnt read the part # on the old air/fuel mix sensor so I has to count the holes in the old sensors tip (mine was 7 total, 6 around the cylinder and 1 at the tip) And the only one that had 6 was this part # 234-9041. Oreillys had 2 of them in stock for 169.99$. YIKES! I paid 124$ with tax prime shipping. The other three sensors I bought the ad got changed to downstream after leaving a review with pix saying it doesnt work. Check Engine Light instantly went off after starting. Let it run cause it seemed to be doing a idle mixture check. SO happy I mean I only saved like 45$ But I also did Fuel filter/ Fuel pump strainer bag for 32$ and all my high rpm idling went away. It would cold start @ 1600rpm and I would need to let it run to let the rpm lower before shifting gears because shifting into reverse at 1400-1600 rpm is BAD it will slam into gear hard. Had Jerky unresponsive acceleration that was such a pain in traffic. The fuel filter and strainer were CLOGGED black. Put the new beck arnley fuel filter in and the 5$ strainer bag total 32$ and the fuel pump is RIGHT UNDER your rear seat and has an access port. Took 40 minutes to change out. Hardest part is the auto-electrical connectors are hard to un plug lol. and those damn evil clips from hell on the assembly, The clip on the strainer bag make sure to use an AWL to stretch that ring clip out and a flathhead to pres it under its lip on the shaft again. took me 40-50 minutes and could have done my fuel pump too but it wasnt having problems starting just the funky acceleration. So The denso pump I have I KNOW is better than a cheap 20$ replacement pump. I think the denso pumps 50$. When I replace the fuel filter again in 20k miles (should be every 30k but it was so dirty I expect this one to dirty up sooner.) I will replace the pump with the 50$ original denso. Maybe. Those pumps are durable and it never took more than 4-5 cranks to start the engine 3 being ideal. IE : eht eht eht vroom Anyway I hope I helped a few camry owners with the fuel problem. ALSO if you hear a ticking noise in your engine. Put your hand on the canister purge solenoid near the intake filter. That is probably stuck open letting air into the engine running it hot. Which WILL burnout new Air/Fuel mix sensor in a few months if let go. The fuel mix sensor failing is a failsafe to save the engine from running too lean and hot too long. The air mix sensor failing provides rich max fuel running to prevent the solenoid purge valve from your gas tank from burning up your motor. SO if you have an engine code for that solenoid as did I for that and sensor 1 bank 1 p0031 I only found the solenoids original denso part on Ebay and Rock Auto. Ebay was 70$ rock auto was 77$. But after adding the solenoid, fuel filter/fuel pump strainer & this sensor It purrs like a kitty kat. Oh also bought Denso iridium power spark plugs as my old ones were fried from the solenoid sticking open and running the motor so lean. When you replace those, check your ignition boots I had a connector melt but it works fine. Wont be touching it now until I replace the harness and coil. Hope I helped some camry owners. Will update from this date if engine light comes on or sensor fails on me. If its not updated it is still working 100%! Edit: water in trunk caused a brake light grounding problem that made my battery positive terminal corrode and made my horn weak, and cruise control not work. Found the corroded brake light ground in trunk. Wire brush cleaned it and my problems are gone. Although my canister purge solenoid is ticking again and my scanner has broken so im not driving it hoping i dont ruin the sensor until i get a scanner.

Installed this to deal with a P2195 code on my 2007 Camry Hybrid. Two weeks and counting, no error codes. It was difficult to remove the old sensor, it was almost welded in place by the hot exhaust gases. I used an electric impact, then an air impact and finally a torch to heat the exhaust manifold around the air fuel sensor. So it took a while to remove the old sensor, and about two minutes to install the new sensor. That is just how wrenching goes . . . If you go to the dealer, this is probably a $500 repair, it was worth the price of this sensor to see if it would cure my problem.

It does a job.

DO NOT BUY FROM THIS SELLER! I purchased this sensor about 2-3 weeks ago. After I received the sensor, I installed it and noticed lots of smoke coming out of the sensor, I waited a few minutes before I turned engine off because I thought the smoke was from the anti sized. After running the car for about 15 miles, my engine light came off with a code P2237, after removing the sensor, I measured the voltage of the wires with a voltage meter and noticed there is low circuit on one of the end wires. I contacted the seller 2 times via amazon email and it has now been 4 days since the last email I sent and I have not receive any response from nether the buyer or amazon. What an awful customer service! Never buy from here again

This does not fit a Toyota 2003 Camry. I should fix my car in about 120 bucks. But it took all the effort and does not get fixed and the I take it to the mechanic. They found this is not the right one to replace the dead one.

Works great, got rid of my check engine light and no longer have an error code on my obd scanner.

works perfectly cel was gone

Worked perfect mind you it confirmed that my catalytic is done.

Good quality. Would buy again.

My 2009 hybrid camry had the P2195 code (02 sensor signal stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1). A little web research led me to find this OEM replacement. The local dealership wanted 335 $ plus tax for the exact same one I found here. Fully accessible, it is really easy to change out yourself. Part also came with a small tube of copper anti seize for the install. Cleared the code after installation and it has not returned. Shipped to my door in 2 days; this only cost me 174 $ (CAD). To have this repair done at dealership it would've been close to 500$ !! Go for it, you CAN do it ! Thank you Amazon