Dorman 615-188 Plastic Intake Manifold - Includes Gaskets Compatible with Select Ford Models (Made in USA)

I am the original owner of a 2001 Expedition with 175,000 miles on it. I have performed 98% of all work done to this car. I replaced the manifold because of a coolant leak onto the engine from the passenger side coolant crossover section. Once it was off and upside down I could see a bulge in the plastic between the crossover and manifold. It leaked into cylinder 1 coil/sparkplug hole and shorted it out and into cylinder #1 intake valve. The sparkplug from that cylinder was burnt a brown color. I assume that was from the antifreeze leaking into and burning in that cylinder. I pulled codes for cylinder 1 misfire and both banks running lean. I installed the manifold in 13 hours total over 3 evenings after work. 4 of those hours were disassembling the throttle body and submerging it in lacquer thinner to clean all of the carbon from the ports and reassembling it. 2 hours were cleaning the fuel rail and injectors of residue. I wanted it as good as I could get it. You can do the job in 7 hours if you just want to get done. The manifold itself is nice quality. The coils, fuel rail and some other brackets use self tapping bolts that tap into the plastic manifold. The original uses brass sleeves to hold the bolts. They feel very solid so I don't think this will be a problem. That is the only negative I could find. The gaskets are included and permanently attached saving money and making it considerably easier to install. It comes with a new thermostat and seal. It comes with a new coolant crossover installed. Normally all of these things are bought individually. I have had it on for about a hundred miles. It seems to have more power than new. The lower plenum is smaller then the original and does not have a divider in the middle. I am guessing this allows for more direct airflow. It also appears the cylinder ports are arched at a better curve for airflow. I know it was 12 years and 175,00 miles ago but I think it runs better than new. I am extremely satisfied with the results. The price can't be beat. I rely heavily on this car for long distance trips. So far this is a fantastic improvement and purchase. If anything changes I will post it here. 1/10/2014 It has now been 600 miles since install. I could not be happier so far. I had codes for cyl. 1 misfire and left bank running lean and right bank running lean. It cured all of them. I did replace the spark plugs and cyl. 1 coil because it had antifreeze shorting it out. 04/26/2014 6000 miles now and no problems

I have a 2000 ford excursion with a real bad intake manifold leak, I bought this a few months back and recently installed it due to my truck losing 1+ gallons of coolant/water every time I drove it, also it would slowly leak coolant if it sat. A common problem in 5.4 triton engines, both gaskets on my crossover tube were broken as well as the plastic around the gaskets. I chose this intake since the gaskets came with it, and it was cheaper. To figure out how to install I used the service manual for my truck and several YouTube videos. Installation is not for the faint of heart. Took me two days to install, but of course working on an older vehicle things tend to break and repairs are almost never as straightforward as it seems. I didn’t have any problems with installing it, the bolts that came with it worked perfectly. Lucky for me they came with those bolts because I broke a few when taking off the old manifold. So far my truck is not leaking and is running great. Even the ac seems to be cooler. I might update later after putting more miles in to see how this doorman intake holds up.

Fit perfectly on my 2003 f150 5.4 triton

I purchased this for my 01 F-150 5.4L V8. This feels like an *almost* OEM quality product. It's made in the USA, which is a big plus. It feels solid all around. No QC issues. I've read that Dorman has improved the design over the years, fixing some issues with earlier versions (like poor gaskets). I've only had it on a few days, so time will tell on the longevity. It seems that Ford may no longer makes these. Searching the usual parts sites, they just don't list Ford as an option. The few I found are $300-350+. The amazon listing for the Ford part (only one left in stock) only has 4.0 average review. 20% of those are 1 stars, all of which complain they were not send a genuine Ford part. The Dorman product has 4.4 for the Dorman, which is about as good as it gets on Amazon. In my mind, it's not worth paying double for the Ford part. And people need to remember that the OEM ones were prone to failure, too. Hence why this is such a popular product. So why only 4 stars instead of 5? 1) I do wish they used bolts instead of self-tapping screws that go directly into the plastic. OEM used bolts and metal inserts, so that's where the "almost" OEM quality remark comes from. They are hard to tighten down the first time, as you have to use enough downward pressure to thread the hole with the screw. That makes some of the hard-to-reach screws more difficult to put in the first time, so I would recommend installing the screws before putting it in to thread the holes, and then removing them again prior to installation. That will make the final install of the screws easier. To avoid stripping the screws, hand tighten them just slightly snug once it bottoms out. Don't use an impact gun. 2) I recently purchased my truck used. The intake manifold on it that failed so happens to be a Dorman, so it was obviously replaced at some point. It was leaking where the aluminum coolant bridge meets the plastic portion, but it's hard to tell exactly where or if there's a crack somewhere. Plus, it also looked like there was some sealant around the gaskets, which is definitely not called for on the installation. So it's possible that whoever installed it messed it up, or maybe they used sealant to temporarily fix a leak. So I can't say for sure how exactly it failed. The one star reviews I saw were: 1) A couple of reviews mention the screws strip out. I didn't strip out any of my screws. Hand tighten and you will be fine. I took coil packs and the fuel rail off several times on the old one and only one screw started to get a little loose and it may have been like that already (prior owner over torqued it). 2) Wrong part. A couple of people ordered this for the V6. Not really a fault of the product itself. Cross reference the part number across multiple sources. 3) Coolant leaked from the gasket. Replacing the gasket didn't fix it. Sounds like something was maybe out of spec. 2021 review. So kind of old, but not ancient. Maybe a fluke. They also mentioned "Not to mention the massive drop in power that it has on the 5.4l, it is nothing at all like the stock manifold." There shouldn't be any detectable drop in power. My research indicates it's *theoretically* possible that you could loose a tiny bit of power, but well within the margin of error for a OEM manifold. If they had a "massive" drop of power, it was probably the result of the leaky manifold. Vacuum leaks can cause that sort of thing. Unless you're souping up your truck and running on a dyno, you won't notice. I call that a rumor unless they provide dyno proof. 4) QC problem from 2019. There was apparently a hole in the crossover. Definitely a rare and unusual defect. 5) 2021 review says that it warped after a month. I would guess there was a problem from the get go. It likely already was out of spec, as opposed to it "warping" as a result of only a month's worth of wear and tear. 6) 2014 review that mentions theirs didn't come with the "blue water" gaskets. Not applicable anymore, as they all have the newer gaskets.

This was a great replacement for the damaged OEM intake in a 2001 Ford E150 with a 5.4L. I was a little skeptical of the design at first, with the self tapping screws, but it worked out. I like the slimmer design, as it made installing it much easier than removing it. Having the thermostat and gasket was a plus as well. One thing that I would suggest, is to install all of the self tapping screws ahead of time to cut into the manifold holes while it's out, then remove them before installing the manifold. It made it easier to install the fuel rail, coils, and other accessories, because it's hard to see some of the areas and you'll have to install by feel and the screws won't be as hard to drive into the pretapped holes. Overall the plastic runners and aluminum crossover looks and feels sturdy, and made well for the price. Hopefully it holds up like the OEM.

Worked great in replacing my stock intake manifold. The instructions don't state to put the included O-ring on the provided PCV fitting behind the throttle body, which means you get to take the throttle body off to put the O-ring on the fitting if you miss it during transfer from the old intake to the new. FYI a blocked MAF will cause a start, 3 - 5 second run and shut down with no OBD codes condition. Found that out during my test drive after intake replacement and IAC replacement in an attempt to solve the stalling problem. Apparently debris fell into the K&N round air filter and I didn't notice it when I went back together with the assembly. Ran great for 2 blocks, under harder acceleration debris got sucked into intake air tube from inside the air filter, landed perfectly in the MAF cage, then stalled with the condition described above. All necessary parts are included, gaskets, t-stat, t-stat o-ring, screws, etc. I replaced all o-rings on my fuel injectors and replaced all COPS with Accel Super Coil units. Almost 100K miles and runs like new. Hopefully you won't be as tired as I was after the R&R and miss something as simple as the MAF being blocked by debris causing a problem and wondering if it is related to the work you just did on the intake, injectors or COPS. 2 tows and an unnecessary IAC replacement later and the problem is solved. DOH!

This is an affordable replacement intake manifold for those who experience a coolant leak coming from the front passenger side of the composite coolant passage. In attempting to find a Dorman intake manifold for a 2003 Ford Expedition (Eddie Bauer) 4X4, 5.4L I found that there is no listing for one that accommodates the coolant heated PCV system. Which of course, mine has. So as I am an experienced mechanic, I ordered this one knowing that I could come up with a solution if there were minor differences. Just as I expected, the difference is the diameter of the rear vacuum port. The original port is .739” in diameter, with the new intake port being .633”. Everything else on this intake is fine. So how do we remedy this difference? Simple. I found the correct rubber elbow that fits perfectly in place, and it can be found at your local Napa auto parts store. The part number as my included picture shows, is: 715-1783. Just pull the old elbow off of your PCV line, and push the new one on in its place. Et voila, problem solved. Follow all of the included instructions that come with the intake manifold, and you’ll be fine. Use all of the included hardware and for goodness sakes, don’t use power tools to install the new screws. Once you have installed the new intake manifold, you will be back in action. The lack of the large chamber on the bottom of this intake manifold does not make any difference at all in how your vehicle will run, so don’t crash out when you notice this. Time will truly tell how durable this product is, but at less than $200, it’s worth a shot. The last one I did for a customer was on a 2000 Expedition and it is still fine after 5 years. Hopefully this review helps you out. ✌🏻

Something has changed here..I've put several of these on without issues...This one got me good...I had a massive leak at the drivers side rear when done. As some know,you can't see much back there...but I finally noticed that the intake bolt was not contacting the manifold. (it lacked about .030")...A couple of washers would be fine to take up the gap,but the damage was done,as it blew out the blue gasket...I had to take the intake back off and investigate,..The hole was free of debris and clean...All bolts are the same length...I FINALLY noticed (comparing to the old intake),that the new DORMAN intake is about .030" shorter at the rear than my OE...So i get to pay 50 bucks for new gaskets,stack washers on the rear bolts and put it all back together. Is anyone going to compensate me for all this?

Good

Tried everything first without success. Spoke with a Ford tech and was told the last thing to do is replace the intake. Difficult to do on an 02 F150 as the motor is half buried into the firewall with very limited room to work. It solved the coolant pouring out of the right rear top of the engine. Recommend to replace your spark plugs when doing it. You won't get a better opportunity.

Truck blew up after installation... probably my error . Good luck

Works great, way cheaper than OEM, low range in/lbs torque wrench a must

No leaks so far. Not sure about sheet metal type screws sent with unit but seem to hold well.