Aves Apoxie Sculpt - 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) - 1 Pound, Natural

I recently dropped a statue and chipped a hole at the bottom. I was devastated because it wasn't mine! Luckily, I found Aves Apoxie Sculpt, and it was exactly what I needed. The Apoxie Sculpt is a two-part compound that's really easy to use. Just mix equal parts A and B together, and you've got a smooth, putty-like material that's perfect for sculpting and filling. It was really easy to mold a small piece to fill in the hole on my statue. Easy to Use: Mixing and molding the compound was very straightforward. Fills Holes Perfectly: It filled the gap in my statue seamlessly, and because it cures hard, I know the repair will be permanent. Great for Sculpting: I was even able to use a small tool to reshape the repaired area to perfectly match the rest of the statue. After 24 hours, the Apoxie Sculpt cured with a nice semi-gloss finish. With some sanding and repainting, the repair became completely undetectable! Overall, this is a great product for anyone who needs a versatile sculpting and repair solution. Especially for small repairs on statues or figurines, I highly recommend Aves Apoxie Sculpt! You might even be surprised at how well it holds up when repainting your project!

I have never used anything like Apoxie Sculpt before. I don’t think of my self as artsy in any way which is why it took me over a year to even open my jars. I have a much beloved garden fairy who has been the centerpiece of my garden for 25 years. Sadly, she has taken more than a few falls and hits. She is made of some type of resin and had one wing almost cracked off with huge holes. She was so damaged that I have been looking for her replacement for about 5 years. I decided to try Epoxy Sculpt as a last ditch effor to rescue her. This is what I did: 1. TRIAL RUN: I put rubber gloves on and used wooden popsicle sticks to take a tablespoon of each product out of the jar. I mixed the product for 2 minutes and let it rest for 5 minutes. At this point the mixture was ready to use. It has the consistacy of play doh. It is not sticky or runny and easy to shape and mold. I tried it out in a inconspicuous place in case I made a mistake or it did not work. It was great. MY PROJECT: 1. MIX PRODUCT- estimate how much you will need to complete your job. Using clean, separate utensils, take equal amounts of each jar and knead for 2 minutes. Wait 5 minutes to let product to rest before working with it. 2. APPLY PRODUCT- depending on the size if the job, work in small areas until you are comfortable applying the product. It is easily spread and sculpted. If it gets sticky or hard to smooth down, you can wet the surface or your finger and it will glide on easier. A wet finger will create a smooth surface, a popsicle stick or sculpting knife can create any type of surface you desire. I used a wooden popsicle stick to create a rough surface to blend in with the finish. You can take your time as it does not set up hard for a few hours. CLEAN UP- the product washes and cleans up easily with water. I want you to see my garden fairy. First pic is of gaping wing hole, second is right after applying product, third is a day later after set up. So impressed with this Epoxy Sculpt!!!! If this review was helpful please press the “helpful button” which means alot to me. Thanks.

My go-to for my work, the colour is always exactly what I expect. It gets sticky if you use it for a long time, mixed with alcohol but does resolve as it starts to harden up. This is my favourite sculpting material that I have tried, it's easy to mix up and set up. I finished this tub and ended up buying a 4 lb set within 3 months, because I use it that much!

I've used Fimo. I've used Bondo. I spent quite a few years making props -- well, mostly larger items for the theater, but also a small number of hand props and figure sculptures. This stuff is AMAZING. I've got future shock over it -- what I could have done if this had been available to me ten years ago! It sets up chemically; no need to stick it in an oven, no fumes, no cracking, a big piece sets up just as fast (actually, a mite faster) than a small piece (no waiting for some huge mass of clay to dry out all the way), no dimensional change. It sets up wet, or covered in paint or oil -- it just doesn't care. It will set up underwater if you need it to. It sticks to everything -- it sticks at least as well to brass, stainless steel, and plastic as JB Weld does, and it seems actually stronger. It has the texture of a good clay, when completely set up it can be filed or sanded or even carved with a Dremel. But wait; there's more. The stuff stages itself like it was on some kind of artist's timer. For the first fifteen minutes or so it is tacky as all get out. This is when you stick it to things, stick things to it, work it into cracks like a gap-filling epoxy. Then it loses some of that stickiness, enough to where a little cold water is all you need to work it with clay tools or bare fingers. Over the next three hours or so it goes from a bit too soft for my taste (where thin sections will slump) to as stiff as the firm grade of Fimo (only without the sheering). About eight hours later it reaches a particularly magical stage where it is about the consistency of balsa. Firm, hard to the touch, but you can carve it or even shave it with an x-acto blade held sideways. A really nice state to rough in long, smooth curves, or to carve details like checker patterns! After the full 12-24, it has set to the final stage where you can bear down with a metal file or sandpaper. It is a bit softer than aluminum here; you can work a knife into it with some effort. It takes paint fine, without soaking it up or getting sticky (like Fimo). How to explain what this stuff means to your workflow. I'm building a big prop right now. It's got various bits of metal and plastic "found items" on it. When I started the thing, I was tapping and threading to make mechanical connections, or brazing metals, for strength. Now? I'm just gobbing Apoxie on to the thing, sticking the new part into it, sculpting it smooth with fingers and water, and once it has set, either filing it flush or sanding it down nice and smooth. Then primer over the whole mess. Some parts I'm actually bulking out, or even building from scratch, by just gobbing up some Apoxie and sculpting it in place. You want to get a sense for how this stuff can work for you, read Volpin's blog. That's where I found out about it. About the only downsides to it; during the first few hours it is a bit sticky and you can ruin a shape by incautiously by getting a non-wetted tool stuck to it (Aves makes a release just for this very problem, which I need to order next). The dust from sanding the set-up stuff is very fine and can be annoying. And, of course, it is fifteen bucks a pound. Oh, yes, and NOT A TOY. Come on, Amazon!

Questa pasta è fantastica! ho usato già altri tipi di paste epossidiche tipo il milliput o la materia verde ma devo dire che questa Apoxie è fantastica! Molto morbida, di un grigio traslucido, assolutamente tenace e stabile! Aderisce molto bene, si modella facilmente ed è di una durezza notevole. per levigarla prima che indurisca basta l'acqua e mischiata ad un po' di materia verde le capacità elastiche migliorano. Ne consiglio l'acquisto anche rispetto al prezzo decisamente competitivo rispetto ad altre paste. Ottimo acquisto!

Era la primera vez que compraba y usaba este tipo de resina, pero me ha encantado!!! Al principio me ha resultado algo cara (los dos botes me costaron 25'97 €), pero he de reconocer que es de lo mejorcito que he usado, y la verdad es que cunde bastante. Es muy sencillo de usar: basta con mezclar la misma cantidad de producto del bote A y del bote B; mezclar bien con las manos durante 2 minutos (hasta que la masa adquiera un tono de color uniforme); esperar unos 5 minutos para que se trabaje mejor (y no esté tan pegajosa) y.... a modelar!!! Hay que tener en cuenta que, una vez mezclados los componentes, contamos con aproximadamente unas 3 horas para trabajar ya que, conforme se va endureciendo, cuesta bastante. También podemos usar los dedos, humedecidos con un poco de agua (y antes de que la masa se seque), para eliminar fácilmente imperfecciones o huellas (dejando la superficie muy lisa) pero, una vez que se haya secado, esta resina es impermeable al agua. En cuanto al olor, el producto más oscuro no huele a nada, pero el otro... no sabría decir a qué, pero no huele demasiado bien. No es un olor demasiado intenso y, una vez se ha secado la mezcla, no huele a nada. Personalmente no me resulta insoportable (simplemente un poco "raro"), y yo me he acostumbrado enseguida. Una vez la mezcla está completamente seca y endurecida, se pinta muy bien (de momento yo solo he probado con pinturas acrílicas).

It's great if you get a unopened fresh batch. If you don't unfortunately it works as well as $10 milliput

Excellent product for doll customization. I don't use anything else. Easy to sand down and paint over. It is abit pricey but you get what you're paying for.

Been using Apoxie since 2006 and it's one of my favorite materials to use...The product itself is wonderful and possibly the best 2 part epoxy on the market. I've never had any problems before. This is the first time I've experienced these results: 1. It was constantly sticky 2. A and B looked like they were melted and then solidified. VERY chunky. 3. The parts would not mix. I kneaded and kneaded but kept just getting chunks and an extremely sticky, pasty and unworkable result. 4. Any use of water for smoothing made the lumps more visible.