Performance Tool W4002DB 40-Piece Metric Tap And Die Set | Coarse and Fine Threads | Essential Threading Rethreading Tool Kit with Accessories and Storage Case

I bought this knowing (hoping) I won't need it much, if at all after this. It was priced well, and did a good job. After a bolt snapped off of the oil pan on my motorcycle, I had to drill out the old bolt, fill the hole with JB Weld, and re-tap it. This did the trick and worked well. It is not cheap material, and will last for a long time.

Good quality for the price. Durable have used it several times with no issues. All the sizes I needed. Great grip on handles as well

Rust easily

Cost verses Quality... These had Functionality, but lack Durability. If you are an occasional user, they are worth the buy (cheep), but if you regularly need them, they will be costly needing to be replace regularly.

It is a great metric set for occasional use. I don't do a lot of tapping or dieing but I occasionally need to re-thread a bolt or nut and this little inexpensive kit does the job perfectly. These are a little rough and unpolished so they can 'get ya' if not handled properly. First thing I did was to smooth out all the sharp edges to not get a metal splinter. Once all DE-splintered it is good to go and work like the higher end sets. Holds the dies well and pretty easy to cut the threads Might wanna have some of your favorite cutting oil handy to make it easier. I make my own 'special blend' when I can find kerosene, depends on the metal I am working on. But if you just need a kit for the now and then project, why spend a ton on fine polished name branded when this works just as well? I polish them myself and rename them Chris' tap and die set. I ordered this from Amazon Prime, next day (Saturday), and was done by Sunday. I love Amazon Prime!

Nice selection

I only use sporadically but she goes. Even using the drill into steel brackets. Im barely using it tho so far so good.

I bought this because I encounter more and more metric screws, etc. The first time I used it was to thread a M6-1.0 hole in normal steel. I used the proper 5mm drill. The tap barely made it through the 3/16" plate and when I examined it the tap was very visibly dulled. I went to my local ACE Hardware and bought an Irwin tap. I repeated the threading process. It worked great. I'll never again buy any Wilmar tool. Again, yesterday, I tried to use one of the taps (M5.5-1.0) and it shattered half way thru the first tap operation. This set is complete junk!! Totally worthless!! Do NOT buy it!! It is totally worthless!!!!

يجب اقتناءها اذا كنت من لا يلجأ لعمال الصيانة كثيرا.

Están muy bien fabricados, con Precisión. Aun que son para uso doméstico, son muy convenientes ! solo hay que lubricar bien y Trabajan Perfectos. Y el precio es otra conveniencia ! muy Recomendados !

When installing one of the rear toe arms into the knuckle using the bolt in the picture with the triangular washer, tragedy struck. This was the last side, so I was in the home stretch for this (terrible) job. I say terrible because the eccentric alignment bolts get SUPER seized in the toe arms here in the rust belt, requiring a ton of effort to remove said arms, and obviously new alignment bolts from the dealer as well. Both old toe arms still have part of the bolt fused to the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. Anyways, when installing this bolt into the threaded hole in the rear knuckle/hub assembly, I noticed there was a lot of lateral pressure on the bolt. Foolish me, I decided to just use my impact to zip it on to get it started. However, when tightening it with my 1/2” ratcheting wrench, I noticed the effort to screw in the bolt was WAY too high, and the bolt hadn’t even bottomed out yet. Luckily, I did the smart thing and stopped, then backed the bolt out and tightened alternatively, yet the difficulty/high torque required to tighten remained. So now alarm bells are going off in my head 🚨. I calmed down and thought that if I’m going to have to put lateral pressure on a bolt, I should do it on the other side of the toe arm, where the eccentric alignment bolt is. I later found out that this was an extremely good idea because the eccentric bolt (long thin one on the top left of the attached picture) was only threaded at the bottom 1/3. The unthreaded “shank” of the bolt is actually much better at dealing with lateral forces because the lack of threads means it is stronger, or something like that. Also, since there are no threads to turn, the high lateral force on the bolt shouldn’t affect the threads on that side. You can just turn the nut onto the bolt. I then removed both bolts completely, and started to thread on the threaded bolt with triangular washer to the knuckle (bottom bolts in the attached pic). But alas, my luck 🍀 was not to be on this cold, hard, long winter day, in my (thankfully) heated garage. The bolt would periodically become very difficult to thread in. So, eventually I was uncomfortable with the amount of force required to continue threading the bolt into the knuckle and stopped again, and removed both bolts completely to uninstall the (rear) toe arm completely. I figured out what happened was the lateral pressure along with me trying to forcefully thread in the bolt resulted in a phenomenon known as “galling” to occur. You can look it up, but essentially material transferred onto the threads, making a few threads too thick I believe. It was very difficult to see with my eyes, but I could easily feel it when tightening the bolt. I then figured My next best bet was to try to repair the threads, and I needed a 12x1.5mm tap and die, or thread chaser and die. This set was one of the few with the correct size, and it was cheap considering I would probably only use it once (at least I hope so) in my life. That’s where this set finally comes in to this review. I used a lot of lubrication and slowly “chased” the female threads in the rear hub assembly, as well as the male threads of the bolt itself with the tap and die respectively. I could feel the resistance at 2 or 3 points in the process, but when I was finally done, the bolt threaded into the knuckle super easily by hand. I then FINALLY and LUCKILY installed the hub/knuckle side of the toe arm by threading/installing this pesky triangular washer bolt into the hub. It went super smoothly this time. Of course. Crisis averted. I then spent way too long slowly forcing the eccentric bolt through the rear subframe and through the toe arm, which was difficult due to the lack of space and the lateral force making it very hard to push the long bolt all the way through. I eventually got it fully seated after maybe 20 minutes. I then installed the eccentric washer and nut, and went to get an alignment. The end.

Bom

Very bad quality, the teeth were jagged and lots of tooling and burrs makes weren’t removed. I work in manufacturing and quality control, this stuff aren’t acceptable. And some stuff didn’t fit together since the threads were not of the same size! Return it immediately.