Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)

It's hard to capture my Aquarite GLX-PCB-RITE circuit board symptoms, but essentially they were sporadic. Lights would turn on, then turn off, and occasionally turn back on again and off. Sometimes this would be triggered by switching from Super Chlorinate to Auto, sometimes not. It was frustrating. The GLX-PCB-DSP (display) never seemed right, either, in that it wouldn't read salt levels or try to calibrate to salt levels. Basically I was getting funky readings, though other settings on the display seemed normal. I did try to replace the display with a knock-off brand - didn't resolve. I tried a knock-off control board, too - it didn't resolve the issue, though logically, it should have. Maybe a bad board or connection somewhere(?) It was set to the correct cell type, but oh well, returned both for refunds. So I bought this Thermistor (x2) as I've run across a lot of similar symptoms to my issue online. Also bought a $20 solder kit. Never soldered before, and it probably took me longer than it should have to remove the old Thermistor, but it wasn't a difficult swap and got this guy soldered in after a few minutes. Connected the old circuit board back up and it worked beautifully! Had to change the cell settings but otherwise it was great. Lights are working and not cutting out like before. It read and allowed me to set my salt levels. No issues so far! Extremely pleased.

Great replacement part. Works everytime and saves expensive replacement OEM replacement boards

These worked great, Soldered them in and it fixed my issue. Would recommend. It is still working after a year of usage

I was sure my T-Cell 15 was bad after only 13 months... It draws no power... Had this system over 15 years so I know how the cells typically fall off and go bad over time, but this time, it just died. But... got a new one under warranty (a total PITA with Hayward BTW), BUT GUESS WHAT?? It didn't work either!! So i went to checking... I ohmed thru this darm thermistor, and found it was at 4.4 ohms. But it should test @2 ohms, maybe 2.2 max. But it wasn't burned, just some scorching on the fiberglass circuit board under it, and a small scorch on one of the relay leads. So... I'm out nothing, and it seemed I'd need a new AquaRite controller board. Why not try these first, right? Well guess what, that was it! Worked like a charm! Just desoldered and resoldered one in, and after a reset to get the instant salinity right, BAM, back in business. So just cuz your cell dies, and the controller keeps faulting, don't give up until your troubleshoot the controller.

Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm) wrong one for me

This part commonly burns out after 2-3 years in most chlorine generators. Of course the local pool company doesn't tell you how easy this is to fix yourself at a very affordable cost if you have experience with electronic soldering and are comfortable working with electronics. Instead, they want to sell you a replacement circuit board for around $400. This is the third time in about ten years I've had to replace the thermistor. The circuit board is easily removed (be sure to turn off the circuit breakers to the controller first!). You can simply solder out the old thermistor and solder the new one in. Replace the circuit board and turn back on the circuit breaks. You should be good to go. It is nice having the two-pack so I will have a spare ready the next time it burns out (in about two to three years).

Our AquaRite salt chlorine generator stopped functioning. From research online, the most common issue is this Termistor being out. I opened up the generator to get to the board, and noted that sure enough, this part was completely rusted. I noted the part number (it could be AS32, but it could also be another part number, and I'm not sure if they are interchangable, so best if you check the part number before ordering.) These came the next day! When taking out the board, turn off the power! Then ground yourself by touching a big piece of metal, such as the pool filter or your air conditioning unit. Then gently unplug all the wires (they could be rusted so slowly wiggle them out.) Once you have the board out, try to hold it by the side and not touch any components. When desoldering, position the board in a way that you can get to the bottom of it, without damaging any of the other components. I propped mine up with a small paper box. Took me an hour to desolder the old part though, as the old solder was difficult to get out. Be patient and keep adding small dabs of new solder to help the old solder come out. Get a solder pen that has different tips, and use the biggest tip available. Once you get the part soldered back in, use the same care when putting the board back into the unit. Put all the wires back (it's easy since they are all labeled with different colors.) Turn the power back on, and viola! It worked again. $12 and an hour of my time.

I'm in Florida and my SwimPure control panel gets a lot of that direct sun throughout the year. I'm not sure if heat shortens its life, but I replaced this component about 3 years ago, and it failed again. It is an easy swap if you have mediocre soldering skills (there's plenty of room to work if your hands are a little shaky). Replaced it and it's working again. $9 repair. Worth it vs buying a new board! Woo!