BAFANG48V 500W Front Hub Motor Electric Bike Conversion Kit for 20“/26"/700C Wheel Drive Engine with LCD Display &Optional Ebike Battery

Install was easy. Purchased a 500 battery separately. Only had one issue during installation that easily resolved (had to purchase shorter screws) for the hub motor wheel due to the bikes framing. Only thing I didn't like was the brake handles not being equipped with a break lock. Quick fix with velcro strap works just as well!

25 mph throttle only on my old Trek. Since buying it here I have searched around and done some more research. They are cracking down on these bikes, in order to be within the law - at least in my state- it can't go over 20 with a motor of 750 or less. I have a problem with the PAS system, more related to my crank, there is a minimum space you need to fit it in, which I don't have. I need to figure this out as it's really the benefit I was looking for. A throttle is more for a motorcycle, I didn't really need a "throttle" bicycle, but it is fun. There was a random piece that looked like it belonged to the PAS, but after a few videos on YouTube it looks like it was unnecessary. I have to do some filing to get it on. They mention installing torque arms, but annoyingly don't include them (it just a few pieces of metal).Looking deeper, maybe I would have went with Grin Tech's kits or JohnnyNerdOut's but all of their kits were more expensive. I just wanted to try this out on a whim, I wasn't looking to make a big investment. The only ebikes that interested me were in the $1,500 - 2,000 range, for $600 (with other parts and stuff for my bike) I got a bike that I wanted I can get to 25 MPH on a flat via a throttle. I've only had it out once, but it zipped me up all the hills I wanted. I was tempted to get a more powerful motor, but at 150 lbs, I figured I'd be ok. The install is pretty straightforward, there's a little tinkering to get things fitted just right, the box for the controller provided was a pain to try an install so I went with a bag, the larger battery affects your ability to put the box on the center post. I spend most of my time fiddling with the wires, I'd like to build a fairing with a headlight and hide them, but they look good for now. I could get a cheap handlebar bag and stick them in there. The fact that it's only a front hub, makes it the simplest of all the kits to install, it's also the least expensive, there's a little work involved but it's essentially DIY made easy. I'm only giving it 4 stars as I had to search for basic information (the largest size tire that can go on the hub (1.5 to 2.25 still need to check if bike can accept that width) and the clearance issue with regard to the PAS wasn't made clear.

Front wheel kit with rear rack and battery. Kit came in two packages and all parts present. Good quality unit and easy to assemble. Watch videos and read up on product, plus instructions give links to videos. Very satisfied with product and seller

I recommend a grin torque arm for peice of mind. It does not come with one but it does have torque washers that I think may be good enough but the extra peice of mind the axle will not twist and ruin your forks is invaluable to me. That said the kit is everything they claim. Motor is quiter then others and torque is excellent for a 500watt motor. The thumb throttle seems a little cheap but overall well worth the price. The rim seems much higher quality then the rim it replaced. Did not add very much weight to bike tops out at 25 governed so it's got torque still at that speed

The instructions are almost non-existent. A few youtube videos are very helpful, the ones from the seller are almost useless. Some of the hardware is not usable in my case, a 2018 Trek Dual Sport 3. For example, the screws used to mount the controller to the seat downtube are too short to engage the base. Not a big deal, a quick trip to the hardware store will fix that. It's not realistic to expect generic hardware to work on every bike ever built, so not a huge deal. One thing that is very annoying is the axle nuts. They are closed nuts, and the axle is too long on each side to allow the nuts to tighten. I took a sawzall and whacked off the closed end, now they work ok. But they made the axles! It's not like I used my original wheel or anything, still wondering about that. If they had just included regular nuts, it would not have been an issue. The biggest fail is that they did NOT INCLUDE KEYS! A key is required to remove the battery from the battery mount, so until they send me a key, I am unable to mount the battery. The instructions for the charger do not even say what color the light is when charging vs fully charged. I'm guessing that red means it's charging (when I plug the charger into the battery the light turns from green to red, but it would be nice to know for sure that red does not mean it's connected wrong or any other error.) So I have not been able to actually ride the bike with the kit installed yet, I will update this when I can ride the bike.Update - after watching a youtube video, I was able to remove the battery from the battery holder using a screwdriver, so I got the battery mounted and all cables plugged in and zip-tied into some sort of neat order. It's interesting to note that while some screws were short, the cables are not short at all! I think they'd be ok if your bike was 18 feet long, so lots of spare cable to fold up and zip tie. The power button is apparently not a power button, even though it has the same symbol as every other power button I've ever seen. It is actually a battery level check, so I guess the only way to turn the whole system off is with the button on the display. I will check that later today when I actually take it for a ride. The factory is in the process of making new keys, I should receive them in 15 to 25 days. Yay.Today's ride will be an adventure, as there are no instructions on how to actually use the system, so I guess I'll just start riding, and start hitting buttons. What could possibly go wrong?