TRQ Front 2 Piece CV Axle Shaft Assembly Set

The fitment was perfection, all hardware was included. The build quality mimics OEM. This was an excellent value.

Fits like a glove feels good, it removed the knocking when turning i think my CVs where worn but still okay i just saw the boot ripped and it had some play so decided to change it, also after really looking at it it looks refurbished, great hob tho so far it feels good on my car tho i recommend getting for budget replacement.

Update: there was nothing wrong with the TRQ CV axle that had been installed. Had a Toyota CV axle installed and still have the same sounds. Get your problem professionally diagnosed before spending your time and money. Here are facts for your consideration. I had my passenger side replaced first because the boot was torn. That CV Axle assembly seems to be doing fine so far. Then I spent $380 to have the driver side CV axle replaced because there was clicking when I turned right. Now the clicking is not as bad but still there. So I wasted 380 dollars having a defective part installed. Local mechanic said he's never seen so many after market part failures as he sees now. I'm going to buy a Toyota CV axle now. I suggest you do this from the start.

Bought two new CV axles from them for my 05 (05-2010) Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4. On said vehicle I was rebuilding the entire front anew, which included these axles. Built the passengers side first, took a good day and a half of a work day. Was in no hurry to jump on drivers side immediately; waited just over a week. After said time, lifted and jack stands in place…began the lengthy disassemble of drivers side. Some ten steps later, made it to where needed to hammer out old cv axle. Wasn’t easy, tried many different angles to get a good solid hit on it. During one of those angles under the rig, I noticed grease splatter in numerous locations of the passenger side. Discovered the issue was the inner boot of the new TRQ (not) cv axle. Was quite bummed:( Contacted the company and included pictures and my purchase invoice. Was replied to promptly, that was good. Their compensation was that they sent me two new cv axles, that was kinda ok seeing how I’d not even installed the second one; yet it’s also awful…as the amount of work to redo it is not the most fun. I was told “no need to send the faulty part back”. Installed the drivers side, got a good right alignment on it and had the Jeep feeling good. Had driven it perhaps five different days since repair. Today, I was under the Jeep in order to put some new grease nipple inserts into a couple ball joints; and:( discovered now the drivers side outer boot split and spewing grease:( Unfortunately am unable to give a 0 star rating here. Do not buy this part from them for an 05-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Untrustworthy, unreliable and poor quality.

Mazda6 2008. Excelent performance. Item seems to be brand spanking new, tight joints and sturdy construction, the right specs and fitment as per my mechanic. Thanks TRQ. Way better product than Detroit Axle

Installed these and they’ve worked great with no issues so far. I drive a lot of dirt roads with washboards, and after roughly 800 miles, I haven’t noticed any problems. The seals are thick and made of quality material that looks like it’ll last a long time—no grease seeping through the edges. The thread on the main hub was clean and undamaged, and it even comes with a new nut. Everything went on easily, and although they fit a little looser compared to the originals, they’ve held up great. Overall, excellent seal and thread quality, very durable, and easy to install. Installed on a 2016 Ram 1500.

I find these axles very close to OEM quality and I have no hesitation recommending them. Notes: Many reviewers state that passenger side is the bugaboo of the two to remove/install, probably because of the large, center C-ring retainer squeeze together out, squeeze together in maneuver. If up on jack stands, use long-jawed (good condition) needle nose pliers to reach in and grip its ears, and it's not that hard. On a lift reaching it with other plier types is possible. It's also the easier of the two sides to remove from the differential and re-insert. It doesn't have the driver side's tricky spline groove alignment or inner circle ring resistance, so it really just slides out, slides in, and is supported by its center bearing housing. Driver's side is often a stubborn pry-out. Don't fool around with slotted screwdrivers and makeshift shim leverage cobbles unless you like to go looking for trouble. Plan ahead. If you don't own or can't rent (deceasing labor cost savings) /borrow a specialized CV axle puller attachment for use with a slide hammer (I don't), use two pry bars at approx. 3&9 and be patient, slowly applying enough force to overcome its inner retainer ring. Another method that requires more prep labor and two people, is to remove manifold air box and driver's CV axle shield for top access. One person can then use the longest pry bar from above, while the other person levers from underneath with next largest sized pry bar to free its shaft. If someone is willing to assist, this is the second best way to do this step after slide hammer/puller attachment method. Be extra careful not to drag out/push-in axle ends at an angle to avoid tearing differential seals. Inserting a new driver's side axle isn't as easy as passenger side. I hung its outer axle end from strut spring with a couple bungee cords to keep it fairly straight and its weight suspended so that I could use both hands to guide/insert its splined shaft into differential and ring retainer seat. Lube its end with some transmission fluid, insert and jiggle it until it feels like its grooved spline is starting in correctly. Work it in the rest of the way using firm, as even as possible, press-pushes on its inner solid joint housing, never from mid-shaft. Resist the temptation to bang it in with a hammer and punch on joint housing or innermost debris deflector ring closest to differential (It's a press fit piece that can come off if hammered). Driver's side CV axle replacement process is easier said than done (especially if working alone, and/or w/o a puller tool), but I've done it successfully avoiding above mentioned pitfalls, and I'm an amateur. If this is your first time doing CV axle replacement, take your time, if using jack stands, use long-jawed needle nose pliers to reach in and compress the passenger side's big C-ring retainer, use pry bars for driver's side axle removal (if w/o puller tools), and don't get driver's side crosswise and start trying to force it -coming out, or going back in.

Good condition quality packaging. Perfect fit. Easy to install. Priced right.

Semble de bonne qualité et instruction facile reste à voir la durée de vie 🤞👍

Good quality and fit perfectly on forester SJ 2015

كشكل ومضمون يبدو ان خامته وجودته ممتازه لكن للاسف لا يوافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل2010 محرك6سرندل واتمنى التوضيح او تغير او حذفه من موقعه بانه موافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل 2010 سعة المحرك6سرندل (انتظرت كثيرآ وبالتالي لا يوافق مركبتي وهذا في غاية السوء) وزاد السؤ سوء الى الان لم يتم اسنرداد مبلغي المالي