10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A

Great product. I have purchased over 100 of these and had no DOA units. I adjust to 6V and 16V for product they are used in and they perform well in the field. I add conformal coating and silicone adhesive around the pot for extra vibration help in a rough application. I draw about 750mA max from them, average probably 350mA .

Great price for 10. Compact and handy to have around. Output is adjustable to within 0.1 Volts.

Works perfect. I use this to step-down the voltage from a Li-Ion cell (3.6V) to 1.5V for a PRC-6 filament power supply.No problem at all. Efficiency is great, and I could not find any hash noise that it might have produced. Price is - well, you wonder how can they make if for that money?I do not understand the negative reviews at all. If you can't get this to work, you might want to start looking for a different hobby.

These work well. However have very high ripple voltage .. over 100 mV, and need about 1000uF added to the output to be acceptable.

Summary:- Drops 14-12v to 6.5v and holds the output at the set point across that range.- This board is cheaper than the switching voltage regulator component alone.- Can it really be an authentic LM2496S - who knows, do we care?- Basic reference circuitry with an adjustable potentiometer - right for more, left for less.-- For fixed applications (like mine) you could nuke that pot and slap in a fixed value resistor.- For low power functionality - delete the LED and 102 (1,000 Ohm) resistor.-- You'll lose the 'on' indicator LED and its companion resistor, but Ohms law doesn't lie.-- Post operation, no load power use dropped from 0.010A to 0.007A - no puns, that's a 30% improvement.- Dodging name brand over pricing.- There are probably better ways to do this, don't be hatin'.Using this device to step down 14-12v to 6.5v to power remote trail cameras with slightly more available 12v deep cycle batteries vs the 6v alternative. Testing on the bench, no-load showed this device was capable of performing as advertised. I don't have a scope so I can't comment on output noise, still chunked a MLCC (better capacitor) on flipside of the board across the existing output cap - it was 'used' so whatever, gave myself an 'E' for low-ESR. - I'll digress.Generally speaking it makes sense from a user/support perspective to go with the manufacturer 'name brand' accessories for these remote units. But I couldn't resist the penny pinching backside of mine to not go DIY on this one - and you'll see why if you choose to hang in here for another paragraph (or so).For a quantity of 10x at this time, these boards are $1.35/each - the LM2596S alone, is $2.50+ component from the component superstores mouser or digi-key. Most likely this is a ghost shift LM2596S, thank you (big semiconductor corp here) for doing business with China and/or letting the design slip, now I'm doing business with them. I only feel slightly guilty, but you're a bunch of penny pinching trolls too so don't even.Now that the ethics, China, and money bag corporation rants are set aside my fiscal justification for going this route:- OEM part (connectors, cable, regulator, and plug) cost $14.99+TAX- This part, some janky-as copper clad aluminum cable, and the wrong sized plugs resulting in a direct connect plus battery spades, cost <$3.00/each.Most likely the OEM did the same thing, but with some ill volume discounts, meaning they're taking your $12 after materials straight to the bank.Keeping my $12, doing this thing - forgot to indicate - yes the battery side will be fused, I don't need a big-as forest fire on my conscience.

Works great! I use them to reduce 15V voltage to power LED post lights, which require 1.2V. The output resistor needs to be adjusted to reduce voltage because by default the output voltage it too high.

It works as described. Some things you need to know. I removed the input capacitor and tested with a laboratory capacitance meter. The capacitance was measured at several frequencies. The measurement revealed the capacitance of 89uf up to 1khz. From there on it began to dive as the frequency went up ending the test at 200khz at only 7uf from the advertised 100uf. Why is this important? Noise can be easily transmitted through the device. That is the first weak point. I ended the test there since this device is so inexpensive it would be unfair to beat up on it. I will remove input and output capacitors and replace them with better ones. Otherwise this device works . FYI I didn’t get to test the amps output vs temperature. I wound recommend to source a small heat sink for the IC and keep and eye on the diode temp. Just a gut feeling since I haven’t tested it yet. Amazing Price!! Perfect for small projects. I will buy it again it after my updates the board hold up.

They did what they are supposed to do. No issues

I use these to lower voltage and power consumption from the propane solenoid switch on our camper. Lowers amp consumption from 21 amp/ day to 8, and solenoid does not get burning hot. I use 5 volts. I must have given or installed dozens of these things to camper friends.

Llego muy rápido y funcionan a la perfección, muy buena atención.

They work as stated. Just take your time and adjust

Je les ai retourné mais la livraison fut rapide

Fast shipping and exactly what I ordered