Actevo 4T 10W-40 Synthetic Blend Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6

I always liked Castrol oils. Great for my vintage and newer motorcycles. From Honda 750 to Harley Street glide.

I own Ninja 300 for about 5yrs and did use a few other oil brands as well, all were pretty good and no complains whatsoever. Most noticeable about this oil is that it makes gear to shift VERY smooth! and no sort of slight ticking noise like some Full Synthetic oils do. Changed this oil before I started my trip to Tail of the Dragon. Drove 500 miles one way in one day, just to get there, stayed at local hotel, next day woke up and was riding on US 129 all day, day after that returned home, another 500 miles back. So the total miles after this oil change in 3 days sums up about 1400 miles, I changed oil again anyway when I return back to home, as you guess bike was a bit under pressure on a twisty mountain roads, uphills /downhills and the oil was still fresh, engine did not have any issues within or after this trip back to home, as an example: no overheating or loss of power. Ninja 300 takes 10w40, 2.2 quarts with a filter, 2 quarts without changing a filter if you just drain/refill oil and has a wet clutch, current odometer reading on my N300 - 20K miles. This oil is Synthetic Blend. P. S - don't forget to lube the chain as well and check your tire PSI in the morning, BEFORE your trip! ✌️ UPDATE, December 2022: Still keep buying this oil for my Ninja, I change oil every 2k or 3k miles and this oil keeps the engine running like a new. Current ODO reading on my N300 is 35k miles, attaching a 2nd picture. Love this oil, wish I could add it in my Coffee like a half & half 😜✌️ UPDATE, December 2023: Still running good at 41K miles, attaching a 3rd picture. UPDATE, June 2025. Did not ride much due to busy at work but still, my bike now has 44K miles on ODO. Still running great, still rolling! attaching a 4th picture

Think you need synthetic? Castrol Actevo is a synthetic blend that runs exceptionally well and is a great value when compared to the costs of exotic pure synthetic oils. If you are trying to make up your mind as to your specific needs, consider the following.......... 1. The company that I work for maintains a fleet of about 25 light trucks and cars. In the thirty years I have been there I know that the engine oils are changed at 7000 miles. The only oil ever used has been and still is a multi-grade non-synthetic mineral oil. We ran vehicles to 100,000 miles until about ten years ago and because we have had such good luck with powertrain durability we upped it to 150,000 miles before replacement. To my knowledge, we have never had an oil related engine problem. Of course these aren't motorcycles but point being, regular changes of engine oil and filter is crucial to longevity of service. 2. Google "Aviation oils" and you will find that piston aircraft engines are run on mineral (non-synthetic oils with synthetics used primarily in turbine and jet engines. Lycoming and Continental recommends engine breakin on pure mineral oils with no additives. 3. Personally, and your opinion may differ from mine, but the way I determine if an oil is doing it's job in my motorcycles is to run a magnetic drain plug and a magnetic filter ring and after the initial breakin period where metal accumulation at the magnets is normal, if I continue to see powdered metal on the magnets after breakin I would consider trying oil of a higher grade. 4. Most "synthetics" are not synthetic at all but are just more highly refined mineral oils. Generally speaking it's the additives that give synthetic as well as mineral oils their superior properties. In motorcycles, I don't agree with extended change intervals advocated by marketers of synthetic oils. I would not argue that synthetics in the laboratory are indeed indicated by testing to be superior to pure mineral oils and under extreme conditions they would be a better choice. But, I have read that 85% of users of synthetic oils will never need their capabilities. Your choice of oils is unique to your machines and your riding style and I would not attempt to argue for or against any oil (mineral or synthetic) but consider that "CASTROL ACTEVO" is in the middle of the road as a synthetic blend at a cost of around $5.80 a quart as compared to synthetics that are far higher priced. After you evaluate your needs, maybe you find that you really don't need those high tech engine lubricants. In shared sump motorcycles, I change oil/filter at 2500 miles and have never had an oil related engine/transmission problem using Actevo. I've been riding since 1968 and average perhaps 15,000 miles a year. All my motorcycles (four at present) are Jap shared sump motorcycles. Ride safe friends!

Love the product

Unfortunately Rotella full synthetic no longer gets along with my wet clutch motorcycles despite having the JASO MA ratings so I had to switch oils. With the 5w40 full synthetic Rotella I used to easily get 5,000 mile extended oil change intervals (up from 3,000) and had a slight increase in fuel economy (around 8 percent or so). Either the formula changed or maybe the age and abuse on the clutch is finally showing it self, but Rotella no longer agrees with my fleet of motorcycles. This Castrol is keeping 3 of my 5 motorcycles happy, nice smooth clutch and gear engagement, finding Neutral easily even on my Bashan 198cc Chinese motorcycle that usually has tough and notchy gears... I am however no longer getting the benefits I was getting with the 5w40 full synthetic oil, no more extending the oil change intervals and I'm seeing slightly lower miles per gallon with the 10w40 synthetic blend. But again, I no longer have gearbox chatter and wet clutch issues with this oil. I will be trying Valvoline and other name branded full synthetic Motorcycle formulas to see if I can get similar clutch feel and get better fuel economy again... 8 percent is a lot more smiles per gallon between that boring idle time filling up at the gas station after all Working great in my 1999 KLR 652cc with 13k miles, 2013 Bashan Will 198cc with 5k miles, 2023 Lifan KPM 198cc with only 3 miles (just purchased and assembled the KPM a few weeks ago)

Without a laboratory and not being a petroleum engineer it's hard to get past the marketing and tell one oil from another. One person swears by this brand of oil and another person says that brand is crap. My friend tells me that semi-synthetic oil is not good and other people, who seem to know what they are talking about, say that it's the only thing you should be running in your motorcycle. Personally, I think that most name brand motorcycle oils are going to be good and hard to tell any difference between. I believe the correct viscosity car oil would be fine, but you do want to use 4 stroke motorcycle oil in motorcycles with wet clutches as the newer car oil has additives which will mess up your wet clutch. There is also the issue of seals and O-rings which motorcycles have a lot of. I've purchased the 3 gallon packs of Actevo10/40 twice now and use it in all of my motorcycles. I have a Suzuki DRZ 400, a Yamaha WR250R, a 1976 Honda CB 750, and a 1969 Honda Trail 90. I used to use Yamalube, which I have never had a problem with, but it's quite a bit more expensive. My wet clutches work smoothly with the Actevo and don't complain even under heavy slipping on some of the steep trails around here. The oil seems to hold up well with heat and still looks and feels good when I do my yearly oil changes.

Arrived in great shape - No leaks!!

So far it is working great!!