---
product_id: 7708941
title: "238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan"
brand: "rust-oleum"
price: "€ 510.44"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Rust Oleum"
url: https://www.desertcart.es/products/7708941-238466-professional-floor-coating-kit-dunes-tan
store_origin: ES
region: Spain
---

# Covers up to 400 sq ft per kit Vehicle ready in just 4 days Superior chemical & wear resistance 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan

**Brand:** rust-oleum
**Price:** € 510.44
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🚗 Transform your garage floor into a showroom-ready space—fast and flawless!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan by rust-oleum
- **How much does it cost?** € 510.44 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.es](https://www.desertcart.es/products/7708941-238466-professional-floor-coating-kit-dunes-tan)

## Best For

- rust-oleum enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted rust-oleum brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Expansive Coverage:** Covers up to 400 sq ft per kit, maximizing your investment
- • **Unmatched Durability:** Withstands heavy foot and vehicle traffic without compromise
- • **Sleek Semi-Gloss Finish:** Adds a professional, polished look with optional decorative chips
- • **Fast-Track Floor Upgrade:** Ready for heavy foot traffic in just 1 day—no downtime!
- • **Chemical & Water Resistant:** Protects your floors from spills, stains, and standing water

## Overview

Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit in Dunes Tan is a high-solids, solvent-based epoxy designed for superior adhesion and durability. Ideal for garages, basements, and workshops, it resists chemicals, wear, and standing water while covering up to 400 sq ft per kit. Ready for heavy foot traffic in 1 day and vehicle traffic in 4 days, it delivers a semi-gloss finish with options for decorative chips to elevate your space.

## Description

Product Description Rust-Oleum EPOXY Shield Professional Floor Coating strengthens and protects shops and other commercial concrete surfaces. Apply for excellent wear, impact and abrasion resistance to heavy foot and vehicle traffic. Kit includes 2-part solvent-based epoxy coating, Decorative Color Chips and detailed instructions. From the Manufacturer Rust-Oleum EPOXY Shield Professional Floor Coating strengthens and protects shops and other commercial concrete surfaces. Apply for excellent wear, impact and abrasion resistance to heavy foot and vehicle traffic. Kit includes 2-part solvent-based epoxy coating, Decorative Color Chips and detailed instructions.

Review: Great Product - Just finished my garage with the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy Shield (SOLVENT based, not the water based junk from HD) and the Premium Clear. Looks amazing. 1) As said by others many times before, prep, prep, prep and then prep some more! My garage is about 6 years old and the floor was in really good shape. Only issue I had was with a large oil spot caused by my 2002 civic which likes to mark its territority. I used the Rutoleum degreaser and got a lot of it up but this stuff was really in there. Then I used a product call "Pour-n-Restore". This worked really well and I was surprised how much of the oil it "pulled out" of the concrete. 2) I etched my floor with acid but I used the stuff made by Surface Gel Tek. They make a 24% acid solution that is suspended in a gel solution. You actually roll the stuff on with a paint roller. It produce a very uniform profile on the floor that felt like 100~120 grit sand paper. VERY easy to use and much less messy than muratic acid. Only drawback is it is a little pricey, about $70 per gallon and most likely it will have to be shipped to you (very few distributors). Shipping is expensive since it is hazardous materials. Total cost to get 2 gallons was about $180, but I think it made the job MUCH easier and was definitely worth it. 3) After etching, washing, etc I let the floor dry for 4 days to be 100% sure it was dry. 4) I applied 2 coats of the epoxy shield color about 24 hrs about. Don't try to be cheap and do just 1 coat of the epoxy. You won't be happy with the results. My garage is 440 sq ft. I talked with Rustoleum and the tech said even though they kit says it will cover 500 sq ft in reality the Professional Epoxy kit covers about 350~400 sq ft. So i purchased 4 kits, total of 8 gallons of material. And I am glad I did. No way that 1 kit would have been enough for each coat. Applied the 1st coat "medium" and went very heavy on the 2nd coat. I did not follow the suggestion from Rustoleum to paint in 4x4 sections. I just painted from side to side front to back and made sure to keep a wet edge. I did a medium broadcast of the color chips on top of the 2nd coat. I made a pair of "spike" shoes using two pieces of 1"x4" board and drove drywall screws through it. Then I used duct tape to attach them to a cheap pair of shoes. Worked like a charm and allowed me to easily walk across the wet epoxy to broadcast the chips.. 5) After 48 hrs I applied 1st coat of the Premium Clear. Stuff goes on very thin and like others have said you have to use a bright light sitting at floor level in order to be able to see where you have painted. I actually found it was best to shut the garage door and just use the floor light (yes, you HAVE to wear a respirator if you don't want to die). 6) Applied a 2nd coat of clear after 24 hrs. For this final coat I mixed in the Shark-Grip anit-slip additive. Without it the floor would have been an ice rink! The directions on the Shark Grip say to use the entire 3 oz bottle to 1 gallon of clear but I cut this back to about 1/2 and ended up with a good compromise between floor gloss, clean ability and anti-slip. You couldn't slip on this floor if your tried. So, the stuff has been down about 9 days at this point. I am going to wait at least 1 more week before pulling the cars back in just to make sure I won't have any issues. I'll try to update in 6 moths or so to let you know how it looks. ***Update*** 4/16/13 - Well it has been about 1 year since I applied the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy and it has held up very well. Not a single occurence of the epoxy lifting from "hot tire" pick-up or a single chip from all the tools I have dropped on the floor. I think this is motly due to the extensive prep work and the nice etching profile I was able to get with the Surface Gel Tek product. I do a fair amount of auto repairs in my garage and nothing that I have spilled on the floor has left a single stain (and no issues from the winter's road salt). The floor did get a little dirty after some of the larger repair projects but after sweeping and a quick mop it looked pretty good. What really made it look like new was a good spring scrubbing with simple green and water. I was surprised how great it looked after this. The only cons I have encountered is that the clear coat does scratch a little easier that I thought it would. For example, if a pebble gets stuck under the wheel of my creeper it will scratch the surface. But I am a very OCD person who notices every little scratch. Most people don't even see the scratches unless I point them out. Also, I am only talking about surface scratches on the clear coat. I don't have any scrathes that cut through the epoxy. I just make sure to use common sense when moving a heavy object around the floor (I would not reccommend dragging a transmission from one end of the shop to the other). Overall, I am still very happy with how the floor looks and how the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy has held up. I would definitely use it again. Btw, did I mention to be sure and prep the floor? :)
Review: Highly recommended product to finish your garage - no matter what you use it for! - Some people think that just because their garage is dry-walled and insulated it is "finished" - it's not! Most people forget about the floor. Concrete is porous and unless its been epoxied or sealed, it'll absorb almost anything that spills on it: vehicle fluids (motor oil, transmission/differential fluid, etc), lawn fertilizers and pesticides, paints and varnishes, and everything in between. The answer to help combat this stuff from staining your concrete and, in some cases, preventing odors from these chemicals even after they've been cleaned, is to epoxy your garage floor. If prepped and applied correctly, it'll cover the existing eyesores and smell and will make your garage look good as new! I've lost count of how many times I've applied this product for myself (in three different houses and two barns) and for friends and family. When I epoxied my first house, I used Rust-Oleum 251965 Garage Floor Kit but found that even after I had prepped the floor properly, I would have chipping and hot-tire lift. I was able to remove most of it and used this professional grade floor kit and fond it to be the best! Ever since then, I've been using it with great results. Some people might be turned off about the amount of work and time that is involved. Make no mistake about it! Depending on the size of the floor you are doing and how dirty is was previously, it take A LOT OF TIME and some elbow grease (this has allowed me to make a part-time business out of applying this stuff). You also need decent weather conditions (70°+ and no rain for two days) for the best application. Also, make sure you have plenty of epoxy. If you are remotely close to 300 sq ft per kit, I recommend getting another kit - it is better to have too much than to run short! When you are starting to apply you have no way of knowing how much you'll have left. But as long as you don't slop it on there or have excessively porous or rough concrete, you should be in great shape! To make it easy, you'll need the following: Garage floor Decent weather (70°F+ and no rain for a few days) Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit (one kit for each ~300 sq ft) Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce (one bottle should do unless you have a lot of oil spillage) Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch (one package for each ~250 sq ft) (2) 5-gallon pails Paint brushes Paint roller tray (a good metal one - not a cheap plastic one) 3/8" nap roller w/ paint roller and extension stick (so you aren't bending over) Stiff-bristle brush Paint stir sticks or power stirrer Cardboard, carpet reminant, or whatever to catch spills/drops and from tracking the stuff around if you are sloppy Hose with sprayer Squeegee The first step is to remove everything from the floor. This can take time and can be a pain since some items can be heavy and cumbersome to move. But don't complain - I can't stress how much it'll be worth it in the end. When I've moved items out of the garage, I usually just place them about 10 feet or so away from the garage door in the driveway and put a tarp over the belongings (keeps the rain off the material and keeps the riffraff from seeing what you have out there). Second step is to degrease. If you have a brand new garage floor, which most people don't, you'll likely need this step. This help remove all of the oils, grease, and some chemicals from the surface so the epoxy bonds properly to the concrete. I've used Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce straight out of the bottle (don't dilute) for the areas where the oils and grease are. Make sure to use a stiff-bristle brush. You'll notice that the stain may not disappear because it has soaked down into the concrete but that the surface contamination is gone - this is the point! Make sure to use plenty of water when washing this stuff out of the garage, especially when using at 100% concentrate. Squeegee after rinsing. Immediately after degreasing (if applicable), you'll prepare to etch. A good etch without using muriatic acid is Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch . You'll mix it in a 5-gallon pail and then should use a watering can to distribute it on the concrete. You'll hear fizzing sound (which means its working!); after few minutes, scrub with a stiff-bristle brush again and then rinse and squeegee. Let sit overnight or a few hours in the day to dry. Finally, after all that prep work, you are ready to apply the product! You'll want to have a "helper" if you are doing more than a 2 car garage - it'll help keep the application time down and give someone to help you edge (paint the concrete reveals [if you have them]), get the relief cracks and where the roller can't get to. You'll want a small, plastic paint bucket and a decent brush for this. If you are using more than one kit (in the case of anything larger than a 1 car garage), you'll want to mix the "Part B's" in a 5-gallon bucket to ensure the color is consistent across the garage. This instructions state this. Once you've done that, you'll dump the Part B's back into the can (with the exception of the last can - you'll just start and will add "Part A" and mix in the 5 gallon bucket [along with each subsequent kit]). Make sure to mix well with a pain stick with vigorous stirring or use a power stirrer. You'll then have a 30-60 minute break while the materials activate. You can always start a tad early by starting the edging and painting where the roller can't get to. Once your wait time is up and you've edged, start applying the epoxy via roller. I typically do 4' x 10' sections at a time so I can throw the flake on and keep a good rhythm. One thing about flake - use as much as you want but don't use too much. I also highly recommend that you use some, even if you don't want to, since it'll help disguise dirt, grime, and eventual sun fade and shadows from where your stuff was (if you leave your garage doors open to the sun a lot). After application, you'll need to wait at least 24 hours to walk on it and a few days (3-4) to start putting your stuff back into the garage, including vehicles. After all this time and work, you'll have a garage (floor) that everyone will envy! I still get compliments on ours, even by family that have seen the finished product.

## Features

- High solids solvents based epoxy coating ideal for garage floors, basements, workshops, etc
- Provides superior resistance to chemicals, wear and even standing water
- Covers up to 200 sq feet per gallon and is ready for heavy foot traffic in 1 day, vehicle ready in 4 days
- Ultimate adhesion and durability, withstands heavy foot and vehicle traffic
- Semi-gloss finish, solid base color and decorative chips can be added

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Manufacturer | Rust-Oleum |
| Part Number | 238466 |
| Item Weight | 25.7 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 13.62 x 17.25 x 8.75 inches |
| Item model number | 238466 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Size | 2 Gallon (Pack of 1) |
| Color | Dunes Sand |
| Finish | Matte |
| Material | stone |
| Shape | Triangle |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Coverage | 300-400 sq ft per kit |
| Usage | Garage floor coating |
| Included Components | Painting Supplies;Paint & Stains;household-paint-solvents |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |

## Images

![238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81RNlKFLL4L.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: The box in the pic says chemical resistant, but nowhere in the ad. What is your experience?**
A: I assume you mean after it is applied.  Check the safety data sheets.  As an experience, epoxy will yellow in direct sun but still do it's job keeping dust and dirt very easy to clean and great to use

**Q: Can this be applied during March in Oklahoma? I’m building a new home and that’s the estimated time of completion.**
A: I applied it in March in Oregon and it was fine.  Pick a nice day.

**Q: How much better is the professional vs the standard?**
A: NIGHT AND DAY....the standard will flake will chip will come up (I've seen it at friends who opted to use the standard).   The professional will not.  I had the professional product for 10 years at my last house with no problems, and I abused it.  currently have it at my new house for 3 years now.

**Q: Is one coat of the expoxy good if using the clear coat kit as well.**
A: Truthfully I'm not sure.  I bought 3 boxes of this for a 36'x36' brand new garage.  My builder applied it for me, I wasn't there.  It looked great at first but now it's coming up in pieces.  I'm not sure if he applied it wrong or what.  I'm very disappointed in this but I don't know where to place the blame.  He said he has used this product in the past and he's never had an issue before.  I've read about "hot tire pick-up" but the flaking has occurred in areas where the tires weren't even resting, plus I never parked inside with hot tires in order to prevent this from happening.  My builder is coming over again this week to take a look but I think either way I'm out of luck.  I bought it from Amazon so they can claim it was applied wrong, my builder can claim it's the products fault, either way I have a poor looking garage floor at this point.  Sorry I can't be of more help.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great Product
*by D***E on June 11, 2012*

Just finished my garage with the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy Shield (SOLVENT based, not the water based junk from HD) and the Premium Clear. Looks amazing. 1) As said by others many times before, prep, prep, prep and then prep some more! My garage is about 6 years old and the floor was in really good shape. Only issue I had was with a large oil spot caused by my 2002 civic which likes to mark its territority. I used the Rutoleum degreaser and got a lot of it up but this stuff was really in there. Then I used a product call "Pour-n-Restore". This worked really well and I was surprised how much of the oil it "pulled out" of the concrete. 2) I etched my floor with acid but I used the stuff made by Surface Gel Tek. They make a 24% acid solution that is suspended in a gel solution. You actually roll the stuff on with a paint roller. It produce a very uniform profile on the floor that felt like 100~120 grit sand paper. VERY easy to use and much less messy than muratic acid. Only drawback is it is a little pricey, about $70 per gallon and most likely it will have to be shipped to you (very few distributors). Shipping is expensive since it is hazardous materials. Total cost to get 2 gallons was about $180, but I think it made the job MUCH easier and was definitely worth it. 3) After etching, washing, etc I let the floor dry for 4 days to be 100% sure it was dry. 4) I applied 2 coats of the epoxy shield color about 24 hrs about. Don't try to be cheap and do just 1 coat of the epoxy. You won't be happy with the results. My garage is 440 sq ft. I talked with Rustoleum and the tech said even though they kit says it will cover 500 sq ft in reality the Professional Epoxy kit covers about 350~400 sq ft. So i purchased 4 kits, total of 8 gallons of material. And I am glad I did. No way that 1 kit would have been enough for each coat. Applied the 1st coat "medium" and went very heavy on the 2nd coat. I did not follow the suggestion from Rustoleum to paint in 4x4 sections. I just painted from side to side front to back and made sure to keep a wet edge. I did a medium broadcast of the color chips on top of the 2nd coat. I made a pair of "spike" shoes using two pieces of 1"x4" board and drove drywall screws through it. Then I used duct tape to attach them to a cheap pair of shoes. Worked like a charm and allowed me to easily walk across the wet epoxy to broadcast the chips.. 5) After 48 hrs I applied 1st coat of the Premium Clear. Stuff goes on very thin and like others have said you have to use a bright light sitting at floor level in order to be able to see where you have painted. I actually found it was best to shut the garage door and just use the floor light (yes, you HAVE to wear a respirator if you don't want to die). 6) Applied a 2nd coat of clear after 24 hrs. For this final coat I mixed in the Shark-Grip anit-slip additive. Without it the floor would have been an ice rink! The directions on the Shark Grip say to use the entire 3 oz bottle to 1 gallon of clear but I cut this back to about 1/2 and ended up with a good compromise between floor gloss, clean ability and anti-slip. You couldn't slip on this floor if your tried. So, the stuff has been down about 9 days at this point. I am going to wait at least 1 more week before pulling the cars back in just to make sure I won't have any issues. I'll try to update in 6 moths or so to let you know how it looks. ***Update*** 4/16/13 - Well it has been about 1 year since I applied the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy and it has held up very well. Not a single occurence of the epoxy lifting from "hot tire" pick-up or a single chip from all the tools I have dropped on the floor. I think this is motly due to the extensive prep work and the nice etching profile I was able to get with the Surface Gel Tek product. I do a fair amount of auto repairs in my garage and nothing that I have spilled on the floor has left a single stain (and no issues from the winter's road salt). The floor did get a little dirty after some of the larger repair projects but after sweeping and a quick mop it looked pretty good. What really made it look like new was a good spring scrubbing with simple green and water. I was surprised how great it looked after this. The only cons I have encountered is that the clear coat does scratch a little easier that I thought it would. For example, if a pebble gets stuck under the wheel of my creeper it will scratch the surface. But I am a very OCD person who notices every little scratch. Most people don't even see the scratches unless I point them out. Also, I am only talking about surface scratches on the clear coat. I don't have any scrathes that cut through the epoxy. I just make sure to use common sense when moving a heavy object around the floor (I would not reccommend dragging a transmission from one end of the shop to the other). Overall, I am still very happy with how the floor looks and how the Rustoleum Professional Epoxy has held up. I would definitely use it again. Btw, did I mention to be sure and prep the floor? :)

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Highly recommended product to finish your garage - no matter what you use it for!
*by M***N on July 17, 2013*

Some people think that just because their garage is dry-walled and insulated it is "finished" - it's not! Most people forget about the floor. Concrete is porous and unless its been epoxied or sealed, it'll absorb almost anything that spills on it: vehicle fluids (motor oil, transmission/differential fluid, etc), lawn fertilizers and pesticides, paints and varnishes, and everything in between. The answer to help combat this stuff from staining your concrete and, in some cases, preventing odors from these chemicals even after they've been cleaned, is to epoxy your garage floor. If prepped and applied correctly, it'll cover the existing eyesores and smell and will make your garage look good as new! I've lost count of how many times I've applied this product for myself (in three different houses and two barns) and for friends and family. When I epoxied my first house, I used Rust-Oleum 251965 Garage Floor Kit but found that even after I had prepped the floor properly, I would have chipping and hot-tire lift. I was able to remove most of it and used this professional grade floor kit and fond it to be the best! Ever since then, I've been using it with great results. Some people might be turned off about the amount of work and time that is involved. Make no mistake about it! Depending on the size of the floor you are doing and how dirty is was previously, it take A LOT OF TIME and some elbow grease (this has allowed me to make a part-time business out of applying this stuff). You also need decent weather conditions (70°+ and no rain for two days) for the best application. Also, make sure you have plenty of epoxy. If you are remotely close to 300 sq ft per kit, I recommend getting another kit - it is better to have too much than to run short! When you are starting to apply you have no way of knowing how much you'll have left. But as long as you don't slop it on there or have excessively porous or rough concrete, you should be in great shape! To make it easy, you'll need the following: Garage floor Decent weather (70°F+ and no rain for a few days) Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit (one kit for each ~300 sq ft) Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce (one bottle should do unless you have a lot of oil spillage) Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch (one package for each ~250 sq ft) (2) 5-gallon pails Paint brushes Paint roller tray (a good metal one - not a cheap plastic one) 3/8" nap roller w/ paint roller and extension stick (so you aren't bending over) Stiff-bristle brush Paint stir sticks or power stirrer Cardboard, carpet reminant, or whatever to catch spills/drops and from tracking the stuff around if you are sloppy Hose with sprayer Squeegee The first step is to remove everything from the floor. This can take time and can be a pain since some items can be heavy and cumbersome to move. But don't complain - I can't stress how much it'll be worth it in the end. When I've moved items out of the garage, I usually just place them about 10 feet or so away from the garage door in the driveway and put a tarp over the belongings (keeps the rain off the material and keeps the riffraff from seeing what you have out there). Second step is to degrease. If you have a brand new garage floor, which most people don't, you'll likely need this step. This help remove all of the oils, grease, and some chemicals from the surface so the epoxy bonds properly to the concrete. I've used Rust-Oleum 214382 EPOXYShield Heavy-Duty Degreaser, 32-Ounce straight out of the bottle (don't dilute) for the areas where the oils and grease are. Make sure to use a stiff-bristle brush. You'll notice that the stain may not disappear because it has soaked down into the concrete but that the surface contamination is gone - this is the point! Make sure to use plenty of water when washing this stuff out of the garage, especially when using at 100% concentrate. Squeegee after rinsing. Immediately after degreasing (if applicable), you'll prepare to etch. A good etch without using muriatic acid is Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch . You'll mix it in a 5-gallon pail and then should use a watering can to distribute it on the concrete. You'll hear fizzing sound (which means its working!); after few minutes, scrub with a stiff-bristle brush again and then rinse and squeegee. Let sit overnight or a few hours in the day to dry. Finally, after all that prep work, you are ready to apply the product! You'll want to have a "helper" if you are doing more than a 2 car garage - it'll help keep the application time down and give someone to help you edge (paint the concrete reveals [if you have them]), get the relief cracks and where the roller can't get to. You'll want a small, plastic paint bucket and a decent brush for this. If you are using more than one kit (in the case of anything larger than a 1 car garage), you'll want to mix the "Part B's" in a 5-gallon bucket to ensure the color is consistent across the garage. This instructions state this. Once you've done that, you'll dump the Part B's back into the can (with the exception of the last can - you'll just start and will add "Part A" and mix in the 5 gallon bucket [along with each subsequent kit]). Make sure to mix well with a pain stick with vigorous stirring or use a power stirrer. You'll then have a 30-60 minute break while the materials activate. You can always start a tad early by starting the edging and painting where the roller can't get to. Once your wait time is up and you've edged, start applying the epoxy via roller. I typically do 4' x 10' sections at a time so I can throw the flake on and keep a good rhythm. One thing about flake - use as much as you want but don't use too much. I also highly recommend that you use some, even if you don't want to, since it'll help disguise dirt, grime, and eventual sun fade and shadows from where your stuff was (if you leave your garage doors open to the sun a lot). After application, you'll need to wait at least 24 hours to walk on it and a few days (3-4) to start putting your stuff back into the garage, including vehicles. After all this time and work, you'll have a garage (floor) that everyone will envy! I still get compliments on ours, even by family that have seen the finished product.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ moderately to very good
*by P***X on November 6, 2013*

I did my 120sq' garage floor just today. I've been a residential and commercial painter for over 30 years and have used nearly all products/materials one could think of. I found the Rust-Oleum to be adequate, and was convinced that all was okay with it after having read some of the reviews and having spoken with another painter, familiar with this brand of epoxy. The product was delivered with evidence of a slight leak, which was due to the lid being somewhat separated from the can. Only a minor amount of the resinous gray material was spilled and all seemed okay otherwise, though I didn't really like the fact this had happened at all. Measures should be taken to prevent this (e.g., a strip of sealer taper along the lids). Anyhow, I still proceeded forward, mixing in a separate container, about 1/2 of each can, which was plenty for the space I was covering. I still have enough (unmixed) for a 2nd coat, should I decide to apply it. The floor is only 2yrs old and in excellent shape, though I still sanded and etched (muriatic acid) before hand. Shortly afterwords (10 mins or so) I pressure washed the floor twice, and then I shop vacuumed any residual water and let my dehumidifier run for a few days thereafter. I also did a moisture test using a plastic sheet which was taped to the floor for over a day, which yielded no detectable moisture. So far, no one has mentioned the use of a moisture meter. I have a German one I had bought about 15 years ago (one of the best investments for a true painter!) It displays a table for both wood and masonry, which indicates (in a percentile reading) moisture content within the respective surface type. Alas, all was dry (6%-8% in my situation). I've heard general contractors mention that concrete foundations and slabs are usually never really 100% dry, due to contact with the ground, though I suspect that may be a regional question. I'm in Rhode Island (NE United States), but would believe Florida or Arizona to be much more arid. However, don't get overly caught up in relative humidity and the like, especially if you really work in the product and have it mesh and bond with the surface/substrate. Here are the Do-s: -Follow all instructions provided, especially the etching; watch any related videos as well. Do mix as specified. I used a power drill and a long, paint mixing bit. -Read some more reviews, the good and the bad, and try to infer what the common problems and/or advantages may have been for others, and keep that information in mind upon your approach to the job. -Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum...right before application. If possible, use a well constructed vacuum (Miele) with sufficient filtration so as not to reintroduce any particulate back into the work space. If you only have a shop-vac, drape a moist cloth over the exhaust vent so as to collect any dusty blowout. My initial consideration to use a tack cloth was dismissed as being unnecessary in my situation, though others may have the need, which is almost always part of a great prep phase, particularly when it comes to wood stains/preservatives. I primarily like to deal in producing a furniture-quality result within my paint or stain applications. in this regard, the same approach to keen preparation should be considered for a solvent/masonry job. Treat your prep phase as equally crucial. I, too, feel that if preparations are highly considered, anyone can complete this task to at least a near-professional finish (or better). -Use a roller sleeve designated for epoxy or urethane. I (albeit hesitantly) stopped by Home Depot (who stock this epoxy product) though they had no such sleeves for sale, let alone within their inventory. The 2 reps advised me that any roller would do, which is nonsense...another reason to avoid HD and their paint department entirely. When humbly and politely asked if either of them had worked with the product, or epoxy in general, neither did. As I offered to them, other rollers will fall apart as epoxy, by nature, is extremely viscous and tacky, especially when nearing the end of its open time. -Be liberal with the product, though WORK it into the surface. Keep a wet edge where you can, and attempt to roll in varying directions upon the working area as you make progress. Don't overwork already drying areas, wait to see if a 2nd coat will be needed and address the issue(s) then. Remember, you may always have 2 simultaneously drying edges at any time, should you do square swaths or patches. I'd recommend this approach and that they be upwards of 4'sq in dimension. Work swiftly and evenly and let no one be around to distract you, not even for a related conversation about what you're doing. The Don't-s: -Do not forget to use a respirator. Whomever said (in another review) they felt no need to wear one is sadly mistaken. This is a fairly toxic product and sustained exposure will effect anybody. My wife is complaining (10 hours later) that the house "smells horrendous". I returned home 8 hours after this job and my whole 1st floor was obnoxious. Don't let this dissuade you from using the product however, as this is typically an indication that the product is really rather good, like the oil-based paints of yesteryear... Anyways, don't forget to wear a decent respirator or be prepared to have much of your nervous system standing on end, and for at least a little while... -See the job all the way through and don't reach a stopping point thinking you can return in 5 or ten or however many minutes later. See it through! For an area larger than my own, perhaps 2 people are advisable. Or at least a 2-person scenario could alleviate some of the burden of the job, as a sustained, even application should feel slightly arduous to a even a pro. But the key is the even and steady application. One should have worked up a light sweat while during the application process. If not, I'd question the efficacy of their approach/method. -Don't forget to wear protective gear, such as eye-shields (glasses) and gloves. If you're inexperienced or don't have ratty jeans or painters clothes in general, wear old clothing you don't really care about, because anyone should expect some degree of mess by the end. -Don't worry about very minor drips/touch marks, etc., as you go, the product does in fact boast a good open time, meaning you will be able to work in the blemishes as you go, especially if upon a more cool surface. -Don't go cheap on a cut-in brush. A somewhat stiff bristle brush is advisable, though throw it away afterwords -- cleaning up with xylol is really not worth the additional cost and chemical exposure. Same with the roller sleeve(s), just chuck it all away but do wipe down any residual product from tools/knives/roller handles/mixers, etc. All-in-all: A very decent end result, even after only one coat, which could in fact be adequate. I will likely apply an additional coat after a few days, but am really not sure at this point, as it uniformly looks very good. It is, after all, epoxy. Even though I always advocate at least 2 coats, this 1st application is looking tight thus far and I'm rather pleased. On a 2nd coat, I may add some aggregate, like silica sand, just to give some tooth to the surface and mitigate potentially slippery conditions. I will try to update this review as time passes. So far, I would recommend this product. Lastly, I opted out of the flecks...a touch gaudy for my tastes. Best of luck!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Rust-Oleum 238466 Professional Floor Coating Kit, Dunes Tan
- Rust-Oleum 292514 EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear Garage Floor Coating Kit, 2.5 Car, Gloss Clear
- Rust-Oleum 279847 Anti-Skid Additive, 3.4 oz

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*Product available on Desertcart Spain*
*Store origin: ES*
*Last updated: 2026-01-22*