---
product_id: 10166291
title: "Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor, 24 Volt"
brand: "skuttle"
price: "€ 282.00"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
url: https://www.desertcart.es/products/10166291-skuttle-a05-1721-042-drum-motor-24-volt
store_origin: ES
region: Spain
---

# 24 Volt AC power 1 RPM ultra-slow spin Drop-in fit with mounting template Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor, 24 Volt

**Brand:** skuttle
**Price:** € 282.00
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚙️ Upgrade your humidifier’s heartbeat with Skuttle’s silent power move!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor, 24 Volt by skuttle
- **How much does it cost?** € 282.00 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.es](https://www.desertcart.es/products/10166291-skuttle-a05-1721-042-drum-motor-24-volt)

## Best For

- skuttle enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted skuttle brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Precision 24V AC Power:** Reliable 24 Volt alternating current ensures consistent motor performance for your humidifier.
- • **Ultra-Silent 1 RPM Spin:** Operates at a whisper-quiet 1 revolution per minute, maintaining peaceful home or office environments.
- • **Compact & Lightweight Design:** Small 3.5x3.5x2.38 inch footprint and featherlight 0.01 oz weight fit perfectly without bulk.
- • **Durable American Craftsmanship:** Proudly made in the USA with enhanced build quality for long-lasting humidifier operation.
- • **Effortless Drop-In Replacement:** Comes with a drill template and hardware for a seamless swap—no professional help needed.

## Overview

The Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor is a 24 Volt AC-powered replacement motor designed for humidifiers like the Lobb WA-2 and Honeywell H120. Engineered for ultra-slow 1 RPM operation, it delivers whisper-quiet performance and easy installation with included mounting hardware and drill template. Made in the USA, this compact and durable motor ensures your humidifier runs smoothly, restoring optimal humidity levels and comfort with minimal fuss.

## Description

Drum Motor, 24 Volt

Review: How to test to see if you need it. Fits Lobb WA-2 - Okay, my (Lobb WA-2) humidifier's drum stopped spinning. I checked to make sure it wasn't blocked by calcium deposits, junk, etc. but it wasn't. With the furnace running and the humidistat (not thermostat) set to 60% humidity I knew the drum should be spinning. I took a cheap multimeter and set it to "AC" in the low range and put it on the two brass nuts on the OUTSIDE of the humidifier that the wires from the humidistat/furnace and motor were attached. When the furnace kicks in there was 0 volts, but after the furnace when through its start cycle and started really blowing then the wires were receiving around 24 volts AC (not DC like most motors). It was actually getting 26.5vAC. So, that tells me that the motor was getting power. I took the drum totally out and looked at the little cup at the end of the motor to see if that was spinning. Nope. That meant a dead motor. I ordered this replacement (which is about $100 cheaper than the supposedly OEM part but looked the same). Some hardware stores have these about the same or a little cheaper. It showed up one day later from Prime. BEFORE I mounted the motor I waited for the furnace to start and go through it's lighting and start cycle, then I held the motor wires up to the two power wires: the motor started slowly spinning in my hand. I think it's a 1 RPM (a single revolution per minute) so it's really slow. I wouldn't do that with a fast spinning motor because it would jump out of your hand and fall on the floor/rip your hand up...but I knew this was going to move slowly exactly like the seconds hand on a wristwatch. Thankfully it spun. Yeah, my new motor works. Now to mount it. It had a paper template for drill holes in case the original motor had different spaced holes. Luckily my Lobb WA-2 had IDENTICAL hole spacing. If it didn't it wouldn't have been too hard to drill two tiny little mounting holes through the plastic exterior. IF YOU"RE READING THIS NOW...you may want to give a TINY spritz of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to the nuts on the INSIDE of the humidifier that go to the two motor mount screws. That way in a day or two when the new motor arrives it may be a little easier getting the old nuts/screws off (take the drum out and use a 5/16" socket wrench (with a short extension for ease of use) on the inside and a flathead screwdriver on the outside. The old nuts and new were both 5/16" and a socket and flathead screwdriver made quick work removing them and replacing the screws/nuts/motor with the new ones. Yes, this motor comes with: 2 screws, 2 nuts, a drill template and the motor. I marked where the humidistat wires when (white/red) but I don't think it matters since this is all AC (only DC has +/- sides) but my wires where like 30 years old and brittle so I didn't want to stretch and break them by putting them in new positions. The two black wires from the motor each obviously go back to one of the wires. Black to red/Black to white...whatever color, just one power wire to one motor wire and you're good. My original motor wires were both yellow...doesn't matter. Put everything back together, flipped the furnace on and waited. Furnace started up, started blowing, after about a minute-and-a-half the drum started spinning. SUCCESS!!! This motor was just as silent as the old one. Same exact dimensions. Looked to be a little bit BETTER construction-wise. And: it had a nicer cup thingy where the flat end of the drum axle fits into. Hopefully this one will last a few decades. The last thing to do is mark with a sharpie on the humidifier "Motor Replaced 10/7/2019" and show the world how awesome you are. Seriously, it was just two nuts/screws and then the two thumbscrews holding the wires together. This was a super-simple fix, even though it dealt with water, electricity, AC current, HVAC repair and wiring. LOL! What I dealt with: Two nuts, two screws, two thumbscrews. What I used: 5/16" socket and wrench, flathead screwdriver. Diagnostic tools: cheap multimeter set to 'AC" in the lowest (20v) range. Time: I was watching an old Hammer Frankenstein movie on the TV in my workshop/furnace room and had the old motor out and the new one in before the commercial break ended. It took longer to open the box and find the biggest flathead screwdriver that would still fit into the screwslots than it did to replace the motor. Result, nice humid air and no more scratchy, dry throats for me or the cat! -Mike from Detroit
Review: Honeywell H120 drop-in fit; check these other parts while you're there - This was a drop-in fit for my Honeywell H120 and works perfect, 5min swap including 2 small flathead screw/nut, and 2-wire swapout. No more clicking slipping motor all night Check your drum assembly while you're here - maybe get a new sponge if yours is calcified, and find a way to replace the drum end clamps which are extremely prone to rust. I used a few rubber BUNA 006 o-rings slipped on the bar to hold the drum together - a goofy solution but it won't rust and I had them handy, and can't find a good stainless slip nut anywhere to fit this.

## Features

- Country Of Origin: United States
- Model Number: A05-1721-042
- Item Package Dimension: 1.0" L x 1.0" W x 1.0" H
- Item Package Weight: 1.0 lb

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0076P14MU |
| Batteries required | No |
| Brand | Skuttle |
| Customer Reviews | 3.9 3.9 out of 5 stars (111) |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00076252004516 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 0.01 ounces |
| Item model number | A05-1721-042 |
| Manufacturer | Skuttle |
| Product Dimensions | 3.5 x 3.5 x 2.38 inches |
| UPC | 076252004516 |
| Voltage | 24 Volts |
| Warranty Description | 1 year. |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Skuttle
- **Item Weight:** 0.01 Ounces
- **Manufacturer:** Skuttle
- **UPC:** 076252004516
- **Voltage:** 24 Volts

## Images

![Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor, 24 Volt - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41V2VMzBekL.jpg)
![Skuttle A05-1721-042 Drum Motor, 24 Volt - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71rEdbx5w3L.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ How to test to see if you need it. Fits Lobb WA-2
*by M***T on October 7, 2019*

Okay, my (Lobb WA-2) humidifier's drum stopped spinning. I checked to make sure it wasn't blocked by calcium deposits, junk, etc. but it wasn't. With the furnace running and the humidistat (not thermostat) set to 60% humidity I knew the drum should be spinning. I took a cheap multimeter and set it to "AC" in the low range and put it on the two brass nuts on the OUTSIDE of the humidifier that the wires from the humidistat/furnace and motor were attached. When the furnace kicks in there was 0 volts, but after the furnace when through its start cycle and started really blowing then the wires were receiving around 24 volts AC (not DC like most motors). It was actually getting 26.5vAC. So, that tells me that the motor was getting power. I took the drum totally out and looked at the little cup at the end of the motor to see if that was spinning. Nope. That meant a dead motor. I ordered this replacement (which is about $100 cheaper than the supposedly OEM part but looked the same). Some hardware stores have these about the same or a little cheaper. It showed up one day later from Prime. BEFORE I mounted the motor I waited for the furnace to start and go through it's lighting and start cycle, then I held the motor wires up to the two power wires: the motor started slowly spinning in my hand. I think it's a 1 RPM (a single revolution per minute) so it's really slow. I wouldn't do that with a fast spinning motor because it would jump out of your hand and fall on the floor/rip your hand up...but I knew this was going to move slowly exactly like the seconds hand on a wristwatch. Thankfully it spun. Yeah, my new motor works. Now to mount it. It had a paper template for drill holes in case the original motor had different spaced holes. Luckily my Lobb WA-2 had IDENTICAL hole spacing. If it didn't it wouldn't have been too hard to drill two tiny little mounting holes through the plastic exterior. IF YOU"RE READING THIS NOW...you may want to give a TINY spritz of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to the nuts on the INSIDE of the humidifier that go to the two motor mount screws. That way in a day or two when the new motor arrives it may be a little easier getting the old nuts/screws off (take the drum out and use a 5/16" socket wrench (with a short extension for ease of use) on the inside and a flathead screwdriver on the outside. The old nuts and new were both 5/16" and a socket and flathead screwdriver made quick work removing them and replacing the screws/nuts/motor with the new ones. Yes, this motor comes with: 2 screws, 2 nuts, a drill template and the motor. I marked where the humidistat wires when (white/red) but I don't think it matters since this is all AC (only DC has +/- sides) but my wires where like 30 years old and brittle so I didn't want to stretch and break them by putting them in new positions. The two black wires from the motor each obviously go back to one of the wires. Black to red/Black to white...whatever color, just one power wire to one motor wire and you're good. My original motor wires were both yellow...doesn't matter. Put everything back together, flipped the furnace on and waited. Furnace started up, started blowing, after about a minute-and-a-half the drum started spinning. SUCCESS!!! This motor was just as silent as the old one. Same exact dimensions. Looked to be a little bit BETTER construction-wise. And: it had a nicer cup thingy where the flat end of the drum axle fits into. Hopefully this one will last a few decades. The last thing to do is mark with a sharpie on the humidifier "Motor Replaced 10/7/2019" and show the world how awesome you are. Seriously, it was just two nuts/screws and then the two thumbscrews holding the wires together. This was a super-simple fix, even though it dealt with water, electricity, AC current, HVAC repair and wiring. LOL! What I dealt with: Two nuts, two screws, two thumbscrews. What I used: 5/16" socket and wrench, flathead screwdriver. Diagnostic tools: cheap multimeter set to 'AC" in the lowest (20v) range. Time: I was watching an old Hammer Frankenstein movie on the TV in my workshop/furnace room and had the old motor out and the new one in before the commercial break ended. It took longer to open the box and find the biggest flathead screwdriver that would still fit into the screwslots than it did to replace the motor. Result, nice humid air and no more scratchy, dry throats for me or the cat! -Mike from Detroit

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Honeywell H120 drop-in fit; check these other parts while you're there
*by M***M on December 14, 2019*

This was a drop-in fit for my Honeywell H120 and works perfect, 5min swap including 2 small flathead screw/nut, and 2-wire swapout. No more clicking slipping motor all night Check your drum assembly while you're here - maybe get a new sponge if yours is calcified, and find a way to replace the drum end clamps which are extremely prone to rust. I used a few rubber BUNA 006 o-rings slipped on the bar to hold the drum together - a goofy solution but it won't rust and I had them handy, and can't find a good stainless slip nut anywhere to fit this.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Perfect teplacement
*by H***1 on February 19, 2020*

Perfect replacement motor. Remove old rear ire wires and install the new. Total time to install 5 minutes. Works perfectly

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*Product available on Desertcart Spain*
*Store origin: ES*
*Last updated: 2026-02-22*