Magic Sculpt 1 Lb. Epoxy Clay - Natural

This is great stuff! I've been using epoxy putty for quite some time now to sculpt small obects, fill in gaps in builds, smooth surfaces, etc. The one thing I always hated about it was paying almost 6 dollars for such a small stick. magic Sculpt solves that problem. I bought a pound of it and 3 months later still had most of it left. It cures overnight and has a working time of about an hour which makes it great for sculpting. It cures rock hard and can be sanded, drilled, sawn, etc. Has good mechanical and thermal strength and paints and adhesives stick to it readily. A couple issues I have with it are that for me it's a little too soft to woek with for most purposes until it's had some time to cure. I'm used to working with stiffer epoxies designed for making repairs. Also the cure time is slow for some purposes such as gap filling when I want to start working on something right away. Despite these minor issues I plan to keep Magic Sculpt in my kit frok now on. It's simple to mix and there's plenty of it. It can be easily formed with clay shaping tools wet with water. The resin is very sticky before mkxing so I recommend using gloves especially if sensitive to chemicals sense epoxy does have a sensitizing effect and can cause rashes. It's great stuff and I'll be buying more of it. I highly recommend it for any artist or gamer who wants to make miniatures or full sculptures especially. I do plan to continue to buy marine epoxy putty for quick gap fillls and the like but for when things aren't timr sensitive or I especially want a long open time Magic Sculpt is great.

I use magic sculpt for small scale sculpting and repairs. It is extremely easy to use as a 1 to 1 mix and working with it is just as easy. Since it can be cleaned up with water (before hardening of course!) it is all the better. A few tips I've found useful: -If you are having trouble with your tools sticking to the putty, dip them in some clean water, this helps lubricate them so that they won't pick up any of the putty. (Definitely DO NOT lick your fingers or tools as another reviewer stated, it is not non toxic if ingested!) -Use different tools for different jobs, I find wooden tools are great for initial rough sculpting, or pushing the putty around, but stainless steel is better for cutting, gouging and smoothing the surface. -You can also use a soft damp brush to smooth the surface after you've worked it -finally you can let the putty set up for a little while after its been mixed to achieve different results (for instance if I need a more precise shape I will let the putty set up for 10-15 minutes and then use a wet knife to cut it) It hardens to a stone like quality (assuming your mix was approximately 1 to 1) which takes paint well and can be worked with power tools (dremel here) after curing. Great product, makes my life so much easier!

This is the first time working with this product, I do a lot of polymer clay and other clays so I was expecting it to be the same consistency. I was wrong! The clay doesn't have the same consistency as other clays do that I have used, so there are adjustments to get used to. I like that you can use water to smooth it out. It is not as firm as polymer so it is harder to get it to keep its shape. If you have used polymer clay it is like using translucent only adding some liquid polymer to it then trying to make something. It drys quickly and pretty hard, however, it is more breakable than polymer. I made a unicorn out of the left over didn't want to waste it and several days after it had harded I dropped it and it broke. Not happy about that but glad it happened when it did. Don't want my jewelry breaking after I sell it. I am not a big fan of having to put a base coat on it before painting and that I can't put color into it before I start like you can with polymer (may be able to if so I just haven't figured it out.) I made a wire armature and made a butterfly body on a butterfly made out of 10/0 delicas. However, I did put PearlEx powder on it and that worked good. From a distance the butterfly does look real. I put blue painter's tape on the butterfly to keep the clay off of the beaded body but some did get on it. But to my surprise most of it cleaned off with water. Made me happy. Looking forward to experimenting with it more.

This is easier to use when you wet it a little bit. It takes a while to dry though it dries up hard nice. I fixed the ear on my Batman statue portrait. It looks like it was never broken.

This stuff is super nice. Equal parts that you knead & then sculpt, form or mold to anything you desire. Stays pliable for hours. Keep fingers moist with water at all times as you handle the putty. Smooths with water. Hardens almost rock hard. Then the magic starts. This can be carved, sanded, filed, drilled & Dremeled. You can add to it. Most versatile is the natural bone but, it comes in a black & brown also. Make anyting you want without baking. This is a major Taxidermist must have for horn/antler repair & fish enhancement. So fun to work with. Magic Sculpt.

Sets up really hard. It worked well for what I needed.

Adheres to my 3D resin prints and is easy to work with! It also takes well to sanding once fully dried. I use it to repair broken prints or add features to miniatures. Be careful not to use too much water during sculpting or it may turn to mush or lose its detail, especially when sculpting smaller features. In the picture, the putty was used to make the antennae on my alien husky as well as fill in an area that failed to print (which is now practically invisible).

Great epoxy putty -- though you better work fast, before a Dremel is needed for changes . . .