CZC AUTO 12V Submersible LED Trailer Tail Light Kit for Under 80 Inch Boat Utility Waterproof (Trailer light kit)

This LED light kit works perfectly and provides excellent brightness. All the components feel solid and well made, and the installation was straightforward. It greatly improved visibility and safety. Very satisfied with the quality and performance.

Lights work great and they’re very bright

This is a very inexpensive light set, but that doesn’t make them sub standard. Many people complain that they install these lights and either some or all don’t work. The thing people are missing is that these are grounded differently than the incandescent lights that generally frame ground at their mounting point. Think of these LED lights as double insulated (which is better) and each light is pre wired with a white ground wire. Everything that you need is provided and unless your trailer is made of wood or plastic, grounding shouldn’t be an issue. Also many stated that some lights had dead LEDS and that’s quite possible, but a simple bench test of each light with alligator leads and a 12 volt battery will verify this before getting started with the installation, which is what I did…took all of Five minutes. I’m sure some of these units slip by quality control, but in the vast majority of cases, I suspect that lack of knowledge on the part of the installer is the main problem. That’s unfortunate because the more returns, the higher the price to cover losses.

I purchased this product to replace a set of incandescent lights on a small trailer. Both of my tow vehicles have separate turn signal / brake lights, and both have tail light converters. However, only one of them would make the trailer lights work. So I assumed the problem was available electrical power, and thought LEDs could solve it, as LEDs typically consume less power. I ordered this set, and the shipper shipped them very fast. Installed them on the trailer, which was a breeze, other than my choice to cut and solder wires rather than use their wire splice clips, and neurosis for ensuring that the wires are "just right". The only complaint is that the ground lead could be longer, but my trailer folds up, so it requires a longer lead. The light wires themselves were much longer than needed on my little 8' long trailer. I installed the lights, plugged the trailer in to my tow vehicle, and the lights wouldn't work. This was strange, as the LED's should draw LESS power than the original incandescent bulbs. I contacted the seller for advice, but they had nothing to suggest other than double checking my wiring. So I made my own diagnosis. The problem was was voltage. It turns out my non-powered tail light converter dropped the voltage by a little more than 1 volt. 12.2 volts at the battery equaled 11.1 volts out of the converter, which is apparently not enough voltage to excite the LEDs to light. The LEDs draw very little current, but they still require close to 12 volts. I ended up ditching my converter for a Tekonsha 119130 Taillight Converter, which only loses a few millivolts. I was afraid I was going to have to buy a more expensive powered converter, but the Tekonsha unit did the trick. Now these LED's lights work very well. Nice and bright with very fast response. I have not tested their water resistance as of yet, and will most likely never submerge them. But for me, they are (now) a win. I didn't like having to replace my tail light converter, but it was a voltage vampire, so I can't blame the lights.

I tested the lights with a 12v battery and all seemed good. So, I set to mounting all of the lights and loosely hooking them up. When I went to test them, they were not working correctly. The red side marker light on the tail lights was working but tail lights were not (maybe very dimly) but no blinkers. I tested the wires all the way to the light hookup and was getting power so I could not figure it out. When I disconnected one of the lights, it seemed like the other light worked mostly. I switched wires between the two lights and had the same results. I was pulling my hair out and finally for some reason checked the while ground wire to the trailer. I had clamped it to the trailer frame with a vice grip. I moved it and touched it to a nice clean bolt and bam, lights came on nice and bright and correctly. I spent a good hour moving wires around on the lights and testing all the different light functions and it all just turned out to be a bad ground. If they wouldn't have worked at all, I would have given the ground my first attention, but since it was just a "bad" ground, I guess the lights partially/kinda worked which threw me off. So, tomorrow my shrink tubing arrives and I will be able to permanently run the wires and hook everything up properly. I had a set of LED's before these and they worked a lot better than the old style incandecent, but several of the LEDs on one side were out. Also, one of the amber (incandescent) side marker lights was going bad and they were wired in series so if the bulb on one of those went out or the fixture was toast, it would cut off power to the tail light on that side. This set will be wired in parallel so that won't happen again and these side markers are LED so chances of the bulbs dying a much lower too. Automotive wiring always seems to throw a curve ball to me, so I hope this is the last time I have to deal with faulty lights on the trailer. AGAIN, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD GROUND ON THE TRAILER. As far as the review goes, I am not going to blame the lights. It wasn't their fault but these lights look like a quality set and clear upgrade to my old LED's. Time will tell however. For now, I give them 5/5.

I use a 4x8 trailer to haul kayaks, a 4-wheeler, lawn tractor, lumber, and motorcycles. I don't submerge it when launching the kayaks, so I won't evaluate the water-worthiness of the lights. Today I rewired my trailer. The total time from start (readying the materials) to finish (putting things away) was 90 minutes at a steady, unrushed, pace. After placing the trainer on it's side and removing the old lights, I used the old wiring to pull the new wiring harness through the frame-mounted (undercarriage) conduit. I then wire-brushed, filed, and sanded the metal surface where the ground leads to the tail lights would be attached to the frame. Each light was grounded to the frame using self-tapping screws. Dielectric grease was applied to the cleaned/sanded grounding surface to help promote electrical conductivity. I agree that the crimp-on terminal for the ground (at the end of the tongue) was rather light-weight, but I used it. It works. I did trim away a small amount of insulation and crimped it directly to the bare wire instead of to the insulation, not depending on the crimps to puncture the insulation for contact. Since there's no stress placed on this connection, I felt safe using the provided terminal. Again - metal was cleaned, dielectric grease and self-tapping screws were used for that grounding connection. I have an F150. The vehicle-mounted flat-4 connector is female. The included wiring harness connector didn't match it until I used a sharp knife to trim away that connection's "boot", thereby exposing three male connectors. The fourth connector (green wire) was carefully shaved, reducing the outside dimensions slightly, until it snugly fit inside the shaped receptacle mounted to the vehicle. Next, each of the three male connections was increased in diameter to facilitate a secure connection, by slightly spreading apart each pin with the blade of a pocket knife. A pre-existing slot in each connection made this an easy task. The lights were soldered to the harness, then wrapped in electrical tape and zip-tied out of the way to avoid snagging the wires. Plastic ribbed sheathing (from the old wiring) was applied to the new wiring harness where it emerges from the tongue and taped closed on each end to discourage ants and spiders from nesting inside. Dielectric grease was applied to the male flat-4 connector pins on the trailer, and to the female flat-4 connection on the vehicle. The trailer was mounted to the hitch, wiring harness plugged in, and lights were tested. All lights functioned perfectly and were very bright - a huge improvement over the incandescent lights that were replaced! If I decide to immerse the trailer for boat-launching, I'll waterproof the lenses and housing with silicone caulk. As a precaution, I'll unplug the harness from the vehicle. However, kayaks are easy to carry to the water's edge and launch without a trailer. All said I'm very happy with my purchase and with the function of this replacement kit. The only thing left to do is put the trailer and lights to use and see how the lights hold up. If today's experience is any indication, I believe my optimism will hold. Suggestion for updates: Replace the lightweight terminal ring with one that is more robust. Really want to sweeten your product? Include a small packet of electrical grease.

It has everything needed to repair a trailer at a Great Price.

Wonderful set! My dad’s set was old and busted up, got these to replace his. They are bright and work great! Very happy with them and so is he!