WELD-ON 16384 16 Acrylic Plastic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium Bodied and Fast-Setting, Clear, 1.5 fl oz Tube

Same as Weld-on #16 that comes in squeeze tube, but more and in can. I use it a lot for gluing my laser cut fidget hand spinners that I sell on Etsy. Hardest part is to find right applicator. I found 3ml syringe works best, but it's very hard to find one with plunger that doesn't get dissolved and has smooth movement at the same time. There are syringes made specifically for this glue (with red plunger), but they terrible as require insane amount of force to squeeze glue, resulting in mess. Latex free BD syringes work best, even tho their plunger eventually breaks from chemical reaction with glue, but it works for one to two weeks. Glue itself sets pretty fast, you have about a minute or two to re-position parts if needed. Fresh glue works best, if it's year or older it doesn't glue as well and becomes more viscous. The only issue I had is that cane came dent, top cap was pushed to side so it's hard to open/close. But that's seller issue, not product so I'm not taking any stars off...

I had a small area of Seadek boat flooring coming up after a mishap with hydraulic steering fluid. I tried numerous different glue type products trying to reattach the flooring to no avail. I noticed that Seadek specifically states acrylic super glue to readhere their flooring. From what I can tell, acrylic super glue is fake nail adhesive. Needless to say, that didn't work. The acrylic part stuck with me and after a bit of searching, I found this. This acrylic SCIGRIP 16 did work and it worked quite well. It also helped remedy a tear in my fishing boats flooring, a similar product known as Gator Step, which showed similar efficacy. All in all I'm pleased with the results. I'm surprised that none of the boat related forums like hull truth have this or a similar product mentioned; It seems this topic comes up pretty often.

Had some issues trying to glue PETG, someone suggested this and it works pretty good. If the parts are thin the glue bond will allow flexture without breaking. The bonding is good and quick, but if you really try you can pull the parts apart.

The application was salvaging a damaged John Deere garden tractor hood. The plastic was 3.75mm thick. I have tried other products intended for polycarbonate unsuccessfully. I needed a medium bodied glue to re-attach broken pieces together and then laminate more polycarbonate on the inside for reinforcement. So I tried this product and was pleased with the large size can that arrived. There is no brush built into the lid so I used an artist paint brush to apply. When dry the joins proved to be very strong. Flexing the hood did not loosen the cured joint. The clear nature of the glue is good since the repair is less noticeable. It bonds in a few minutes. I used clamps but on smaller jobs it was possible just to hold the pieces by hand.

I used this product to repair an acrylic quilting table that was broken in half. I wasn’t sure it would work, but took the chance in an attempt to save some cash. I’m so glad I did! The bond is super strong! I’ve pieced and quilted a twin quilt since the repair with no issues at all with the table. It’s like it never happened accept the repaired area became cloudy instead of remaining crystal clear. The product is super runny like water. I used parchment paper to protect the work surface and wore gloves. So simple! If I ever use it again, I would apply painters tape just outside the edge of the crack to prevent unnecessary cloudiness from any extra product applied. It was packaged very well! I highly recommend!

Good stuff sets up in five minutes dries clear and is really great if your cuts are not spot on are you have small gaps in you build.

This is the best product for repair of plastic or acrylic. The most important thing to remember is to let it cure for a few days or so, use enough on both pieces. The boat windshield was actually broken off. It has held up for the past year. No problems.

I have used SCIGRIP products for years, including the original formulation of 16, so I am very familiar with how it is supposed to perform. This newer DCM-free, low-VOC version is not the same product in practical terms, even though it carries the same name. The medium body consistency is still appropriate for gap filling and vertical surfaces, and it does bond acrylic. However, the working characteristics are noticeably different from the original. The bite into the substrate feels less aggressive, flow-out is not as clean, and the cured joint does not have the same clarity or strength that I was accustomed to. Set time also appears less predictable, especially on thicker sections. I understand why the formulation changed, but from a performance standpoint it is a downgrade. What makes it harder to accept is the cost. The price has increased substantially compared to what the original formula used to sell for, yet the performance does not match what long-time users expect. If you are new to acrylic fabrication, this may work fine for light-duty applications. If you have experience with the prior DCM-based version, be aware that this behaves differently and may require adjustments to your technique. I would strongly suggest that experienced fabricators consider researching alternative formulations from other manufacturers that more closely replicate the working characteristics of the original DCM-based product. Overall, it functions, but it is not the same product many of us relied on for years, and the higher price makes that difference more difficult to overlook.