MultiLift Storage System

The metal mounting plates are not designed to match 1-1/2" ceiling joist width. I used 3/4" plywood cut 6" x 36" for the install. (See photo) I opted to replace to cord which was included in the kit, with 550 paracord. This allows me to lower the roof rack completely to the floor. Since the paracord is thinner (but as strong if not stronger) it does not cause problems when spooling. Make sure your cord is the same length on each side after its tied to ensure an even lift. The physical install can be tricky. It's definitely easier with a helper. Pay close attention to the direction of your ceiling joists, unless you're using a full sheet of plywood, then it's a non-issue. Once installed, it functions great. I'm impressed at how easy it works. Even though I didn't like the price, I'd buy it again.

The product...Great. a little pricey. Does the trick. After you attach boards to ceiling, just mark the holes with cardboard layout Thule sent in box. Had to buy new rope, mine was damaged. That was okay, just spent $8 on Amazon, got some more. The hardest part was the layout on boards on ceiling to attach lift. My rating, 5 stars, works great, and does the job.

Works wonderfully to hoist our Thule Motion XT XL box to the ceiling. Takes only 1-2 min of easy cranking and the box magically levitates to the ceiling without tilting or rocking. First time raising it up I raised it all the way to the ceiling but luckily there's a nice rubber bumper on the center bracket that keeps your box from getting scratched. Feels very secure! I'd be comfortable hoisting it with the box full of gear, or with two kayaks in it. A couple things that bring it to 4 stars: 1. The spacing of the holes on the pulleys and the center pole bracket are slightly wider than the thickness of a stud (like 2.5" or so) so if your garage ceiling studs are perpendicular to the long axis of the box, you have to angle your screws at about 45-60 degrees to bite the studs, and you have to find the exact center of the stud and line it up perfectly with the holes straddling each side. I used 2" deck screws. Not that easy! Might consider putting 2x4's on your ceiling then mounting to them? Also, you can space the pulleys a few inches further away from the center pole if desired, making kayaks more stable and easier to get loops onto box. 2. The included rope was folded in such a manner that the inner core (kernmantle) was exposed, it had worked its way through the sheathing. This got snagged and then the whole rope was ruined. I didn't really like the white rope anyway so I spent $5 at REI and got 45 feet of 3mm nylon cord. 3. The crank handle is too short for my tall garage ceiling. 4. I think price should be about $100.

Works as intended no complaints. Just make sure you read the instructions and other reviews if you need assistance. I bought 3 2x4x8 and cut them to 6 feet in length. Bought 50 wood/decking screws at 3 and 1/2 inch’s and that seemed to do the job.

I was thinking that if I paid more for a well known brand name product like Thule, it would be a straight forward lift system and easy to install. Oh no, this was so complicated. Now, I'm not much of a handyman. However, I would expect Thule for the price point for this lift system would make it easy for the average Joe to setup. The biggest problem is there is a huge DESIGN flaw. The parts where you are suppose to drill the pieces into your joint in the ceiling do not fit the average joist of an American home. Thats why when you do a internet search, most everyone has installed this buying extra lumber and drilling this into their ceiling joist. So I went out and bought extra lumber that cost me additonal $70 all to come to the conclusion, it is just not worth it. It took me so long and so much stress because no matter how I positioned it, it was too difficult for me to install. Thats why I bought the "StoreYourBoard Cargo Box Ceiling Storage Hoist, Heavy Duty Holds 150 lbs". The Storeyourboard cargo box was so easy to install, easy to drill into my ceiling joists, I think it all took about 30 minutes. I should have bought this long ago instead of the Thule garbage lift system. I'm sure for those that installed it properly, the Thule system looks nice. But just too hard for the average Joe like myself. I would give the easy install no stars honestly.

As many have stated before me, this was tricky to install. As such, I have provided multiple pictures that I hope will be helpful to others. Since the provided pattern didn’t match up with my joists, I had to improvise with some 1x4 boards. Aside from the time consuming install, this product is great! Easy on and easy off storage system for our cargo carrier!

Very sleek, installed on van's roof but the four clamps can be finicky if they "fall apart" when not set on the bottom slots. There is a small metal cube that sits between the screw and claws which allows them to open and close. Without it you cannot work the claws and this cube can easily be displaced when in storage. Have to keep the claws "engaged" at all times on the bottom of the rack even when uninstalled. The lock keys are way too fragile, already broke one. Locksmith easily removed the lock to allow me to open it. Either get a better key or don't buy this (cannot open/close without key to unlock/lock). Also, I did get the Thule garage ceiling pulley system to store the rack when not installed. The rope is too short, when "completely down" still sits above my van's crossbars and has to be manually dropped by sliding the ropes off the front and back. Do yourself a favor and get a longer rope (and some help installing the pulleys).

Okay, my ceiling has a rafter setup that made installation a little challenging but once I got the framing up things proceeded well. Once up, it operates well and easily - vastly easier than wrestling it up onto the car all the time. I think the complaint about the rope length is not totally unfair but people need to think through this more clearly. If the rope was long enough to reach the floor then it would not wind as nicely around the cranked rod. If the cranked rod was larger in diameter so that the rope would still wrap nicely then you'd have to turn the crank harder because each turn would raise the cargo box by more. To keep the same cranking resistance they would have to put in some kind of reduction gear which would certainly increase the cost of the mechanism. The only time I want the rope to go lower is when I want to take the cargo box on/off the multi-lift w/o a car underneath it. That's pretty much only when I want to wash it and for that you need to get some help.