Lanzar HTG157 3000-Watt 2-Ohm Monoblock Mosfet Amplifier

Am Anfang nicht schlecht,doch nach einer Weile lösen sich Schrauben und die Sicherungen haut es immer raus. War echt begeistert am Anfang Preis/Leistung doch nun dich ich mir was wo länger hält Bestellt am 23.06.18 und schon defekt

Bought it at a sale price, around 80$ on amazon... put it on a RE MT 15" 10,000 watt burp sub.. didn't even move...thought it was some crap.. had a legacy 5,000 watt at 2ohms that burnt, so this was just as cheap as a replacement or so i thought... i put an ssl 2400 watt 15 in the same box at 2 ohm on this lanzar. it ran 20 mins at 3/4 gain on a crossover and smoked that sub... the RE MT at 2ohms would send it into protect in 2 mins max... i zip-tied two 12 volt fans on the amp-never again turned off. it's been great ever since.. the insides look good as well, similar to mtx, and fosgate insides.... not a beast by any means but has great rms once cooled properly at 2 ohms.

I am currently giving this Amp an extensive test, so I will write an honest and hopefully accurate evaluation of the product in a few days, so far though it is working an behaving like a champ, before purchasing the amp I visited Lanzar home page and downloaded the manual, then looked at all the important details and parameters for its operation. For any potential buyers out there please understand that this is Mos-Fet technology (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor), which is older but tried and tested, Mos-Fet was used in all but a few valve power amp up until recently, they are designed to cope with a fair amount of operating heat and have great advantage in delivering REAL TRUE power, it is very difficult for a big company to make a 'bad Amp' using this technology. The unit is operating fine straight out of the box! Many people ignore the operating parameters given by the corporation and then complain when something goes wrong. I began as a Sound Engineer some long time ago, and am still a working DJ, I am going to tell all that is to be known about this Amp, the real deal! Before buying things on Amazon, I rely on the reviews both the good and the bad ones, and I believe in accuracy and clarity and truth. (however I've learned to weed out whining wimps, some people should not be allowed anywhere near good equipment, I've learnt this over the years through lending out disco equipment, usually comes back badly damaged with a bizarre & ridiculous story), the moaners are really saying the equipment was NOT 'idiot proof' enough. (And will never be!) I am playing various music as heavy as possible, as hard as I can, and will update shortly. (Hope it helps someone)...... First Update.....After one week, I'm using two 4 Ohm subs, both with peak handling capabilities of around a 1000 watts, together that's 2000 watts peak. That means that the nominal or RMS power between them is around 500 watts (always roughly one quarter of the peak amount) I've wired them in series for a total of 8 Ohms Load to the amp, the amp has a peak of 3000 watts into a 2 Ohms load, so why don't I go for the peak power set-up? Because it would be a waste of time! In the 8 Ohms configuration the unit will deliver a comfortable 600-750 watts rms far more than my two speakers can ever handle, but more importantly it has plenty of head room in reserve (NO DISTORTION)! Why does that matter? The amp is rated to be 2 Ohms stable, and when the bass drops, (when the speakers are driven hard) the impedance rises and falls to much more than half of its rated value, and when impedance falls to zero it creates an open channel to the power source, in this case the battery, (that means a direct current from the battery through the amp (smoke and tears) which can in some cases, end up frying the speakers also), some power Amps are rated down to half an Ohm (.5) stable, that is a different matter! Those Amps can handle a 2 Ohm load and be driven hard all day. (In other words there is NO point starting with the speaker impedance matching the STABLE rating of the Amp, because any BASS will always cause the impedance to fall below that point, causing heat and damage, wasting money!!) If one takes a 10,000 watts Amp + 16 midrange 10 watts speakers rated 4 Ohms, wire them in parallel, the Amp will blow after a few seconds, its not the speakers, its not the Amp, its the incorrect wiring! The present set-up means that I can drive the two subs to the extreme limit, because the bass will cause the impedance to fall to 4 or 3 Ohms no lower, (that will correspond nicely to the peak 2000 watts ability of my two subs, because as the impedance is force to fall, the power from the Amp rises, all be it for fractions of a second) end result is a rich deep bass, which is brutal and hits like a sledgehammer, and I am playing heavy weight reggae, drum n' bass, and garage etc, I have run the amp all day long and it has not even warmed up, (I will give a demo to anyone who wants to get in touch, using your choice of music, and dare you to turn the bass more that half way! You will have a kidney massage, as this thing kicks like a mule). As a result it is better to get 100% out of 500 watts 2000 peak, than 20-30% from a higher setting with distortion and thermal runaway. I've temporally added two fans (Pictured) with a remote control switch under the drivers seat, in the event the amp 'was' to heat up, but so far it has been running very cold, next I will change the set-up, by adding another sub and wiring all into a 4 Ohm load, but this will also need a power cap which I am not using at present, (because I have a super heave duty deep cycle truck battery, which does the job nicely). The 4 Ohm set-up will double the power drawn from the Amp, and an extra sub will also double the sound pressure level, which in turn means I will be able to play higher level at a lower crossover point. (Will feel the bass more than hear the bass!) Will update at that point, but for now I contend that this a very, very good quality piece of kit. Final update, the Amp is still working fine, and delivering real and seriously heavy bass, clean and rich, I do use a (Subwoofer Bass Controller - Level and Frequency) with it, which I recommend, I have found that the fans are not necessary or needed, so all is still well after several months of audio fun! Last tip, This amp draws a huge amount of power, so use the heaviest power cable you can get hold of, I recommend getting a 800 to '1200 amp pro jump cable' and cut them for this job this saves money and is overkill, also make sure the alternator is up to the Job, have fun!

Definitely not 1500w rms @ 2ohm but it does work. It's probably around the 500w rms mark. Stricter guidelines should be in place when products are promoted with such numbers and not allow these companies to deceive potential customers. Amp is Probably worth $50AUD at most. Lesson learnt, it looks too good to be true because it isn't.

3000 watt dichiarati, se arriva a 200 watt è già tanto, riscalda molto e rende poco, puntare verso altri marchi