Razor E100 & E125 24V Scooter Controller - 7 Connectors Compatible with E150 & E175 Scooters - Razor Part #W13111612015

I encountered difficulties with my scooter, and I was uncertain about the underlying cause. I purchased this artifact to alleviate the issue, and after introducing it, the scooter has resumed functioning.

Brought back to life a Razor E175 scooter I bought from Goodwill for my son. These speed controllers are fairly simple devices but a lot of other things have to working properly for the controller to provide power to the motor. In other words, the device only provides voltage from the batteries to the motor if the following conditions are met: battery voltage must be greater than 20.5 Vdc (low cut-off protection), brake must be disabled (not braked), grip throttle must be rotated (on), and the motor must already be spinning (ie., kick start or push start). If any of those conditions are not met, the motor will not run. There are two relays internal to this speed controller, they are in series, both relays must be closed (on) to work. One relay is controlled by the grip throttle, you should hear it click when you rotate it. The other relay is controlled by the brake, the low-voltage cutoff and checking to see if the motor is spinning, and you may not hear it click. You can't just spin the motor with your hand either, if you're just bench-top checking your scooter, the motor has to be spinning at near top speed before the relay will kick in and provide voltage to keep it going. I assume they designed it this way since the throttle is not proportional (it's either on or off), simpler/cheaper electronics, and this prevents kids of from unexpected acceleration from what would be just an instant start. This is at least the case for some of the lower-model Razor scooters that require the push start. Anyway, long winded review, but hopefully this helps you diagnose if you need a new controller or not. In other words, check the batteries (they tend to wear out quickly and fail to be able to meet the low voltage cut-off requirements) with a DMM, the throttle grip to make sure the relay clicks, and make sure the brake switch is working (use a DMM for that too). The last thing it could be is the motor, but those are fairly robust and don't tend to fail as easily as these other parts. You can check the motor with a DMM also, just give the wheel a spin and see if you can measure a couple volts at the motor terminals. Happy scootering!

My son brought home another scooter left out for trash. We fixed it up with a new battery and controller. Works just like new for less that $40

I was missing one of the connectors and ended up having to buy another part to get it to work.

Easy to install and it worked

I'm sure this Control Module works fine, just not in my Razor Scooter. So far I've replaced every electrical component on my Razor E175 scooter except the throttle and reset switch, and it still doesn't work the way it is supposed too. The reset switch is fine because the current gets through it when I jump it between the motor and batteries. My final solution was to direct wire the batteries to the motor with a new switch and the charger in between because I didn't want to waste anymore money on parts that won't work. I still have the reset switch hooked up as well, but I completely eliminated the motor cut off from the brake, the throttle, the on/off switch and the entire control module. The scooter now works great except for the fact that once you hit the switch it is at full speed until you turn the switch off, but at least my kids can ride the scooter that they spent $120 of their own money on, and that I spent another $80 trying to fix. I don't recommend direct wiring the motor to the batteries because it takes out all the safety features of the scooter, but if my kids push off before they turn the switch on it's fine. Just turning the switch on and off controls the speed as well. At least it works. Razor products are subpar at best and customer service is terrible. I recommend PULSE scooters. $40 bucks at Menards after rebate, and no problems what so ever.

After replacing the batteries and the e125 still wasn't running, I went to YouTube and found some great videos on diagnosing what else could be wrong. Using a multi-meter, I tested the signal from the throttle and it worked fine, so the only thing left was the control box. It wasn't clicking when I turned the throttle, just like the troubleshooting videos described. Once I installed this one, the clicking was obvious. Then I could kickstart the scooter and turn the throttle and it worked like a charm. FYI - I initially mis-wired the batteries in parallel, which caused the switch to not click when turning the throttle, even though the power light would turn on. Once I put them in series, it worked.

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